Tutorial: 1NZ-FE Engine Build

[vettereddie]

After a long wait, I've finally started building an engine for boost. As part of the process, I'm trying to document it all for a photo tutorial. As I make progress, I'll post it up here.

To assist with my build, I'm using the official Toyota 2004 Scion xB Repair Manual. It can be downloaded for FREE here:
http://www.myjdmphoenix.com/images/04_xB_Repair_Manual/

The first post is on the engine Tear Down.

Tools needed:
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
6" extension
3/8" ratchet
1/2" breaker bar
1/2" to 3/8" adapter
12mm allen head socket
8mm 12-point star head bolt socket - $22 from Mac Tools, this IS the Toyota Special Service Tool
http://www.mactools.com/Product/tabi...3/Default.aspx
metal putty knife
rubber mallet
BIG flathead screwdriver

Items needed:
spare 1NZ-FE

Optional:
Engine stand
Oil pan
coolant catch bucket
nitrile gloves
ziploc bags
sharpie
rubber storage totes

For each step, I used a separate plastic bag that is labeled to keep stuff simple and make re-assembly much easier.

I started with a spare motor I got from a salvage yard for $250. I found it by searching on http://www.car-part.com/ and drove 2 hours to pick it up. Note the crappy FRAM filter.



Before starting, make sure the oil and coolant are drained. Also, remove the oil filter.

Step 1:
Remove the intake manifold and exhaust header
- Remove the (3) bolts and (2) nuts on the intake manifold and pull it away from the engine
- Remove the (4) bolts holding on the header heat shield, (3) bolts and (2) nuts holding the header to the head, and (1) bolt holding the header to the large black mounting bracket
- Pull the header away from the engine

Step 2:
Remove the spark plug coil packs
- Remove the (4) bolts holding the coil packs in and pull out the coil packs (the black things)


Step 3:
Remove the spark plugs
- Use a deep socket and the 6" enxtension and loosen the spark plugs
- Insert a needle nose pliers into each hole to grap the spark plug tip and pull each of the (4) plugs out


Step 4:
Remove the metal valve cover (this assumes the plastic engine cover is already off.
-Remove the (9) bolts on the outside edge of the valve cover and the (2) bolts in the middle between the spark plug holes
-Lift off the valve cover and rubber gasket


Step 5:
Remove the water pump
-Remove the (3) water pump pulley bolts, bracing the pulley with a screwdriver to keep it from turning


-Remove the (5) water pump bolts


Step 6:
Remove the motor mount
-Remove the (4) motor mount bolts and pull the mount off

Step 7:
Remove the crank pulley
-Remove the crank pullet bolt with a breaker bar and a screwdriver to brace the pulley from turning

Step 8:
Remove the timing chain cover
-Remove the (15) bolts from the outer edge of the timing cover and the (1) bolt in the center. Leave the hex plug in the cover alone
-Useing the putty knife and rubber mallet, force the putty knofe between the timing cover and the block to break the seal of the silicone sealant
-Once the knife has the cover broken free all the way around, lift the timing cover out

Step 9:
Remove the timing chain
-Remove the (2) bolts holding the oil chain tensioner and (2) bolts holding the intake side chain guide


-Remove the two chain guides, oil tensioner and the timing chain

Step 10:
Remove the dual camshafts
-Remove the (16) cam bolts and (3) main bracket bolts in order to remove the cams

-Be careful not to loosen one side all the way up first or the cam could warp. Instead, start with the main bracket bolts and loosen 1/2 turn, then the (4) bolts on the opposite side 1/2 turn, then the others working your way toward center
-Keep loosening them 1/2 turn at a time until all bolts can ba turned by hand
-Remove all bolts, the main bracket and smaller cam brackets, and lift out the cams. All the brackets are numbered and have arrows, so don't worry about mixing them up.

Step 11:
Remove the engine head



-Using the special head bolt tool, loosen the (10) head bolts 1/2 turn at a time, in a left front, right back, left back, right front, next set in, and two center bolt pattern.
-Lift the head from the block


Note the carbon buildup in cylinder 1. There are carbon deposits in all four intake ports. I suspect the PCV valve was clogged and oil was leaking through the valve seals. I'll be replacing them on the head. The cylinder walls also still had a hone on them, I think this engine was never broken in properly.


Step 12:
Remove the oil pan
-Remove the (9) bolts and (2) nuts holding the oil pan
-Use the putty knife to break the sealant loose between the pan and the block
-Lift the pan and remove



This is why you change your oil regularly and don't use Quaker State or Wal-Mart brand or FRAM orange filters. I recommend Mobil1 5W30 synthetic, or another full synthetic.

Step 13:
Remove the bottom end
-Remove the (9) exterior bolts
-Remove the (2) oil strainer nuts and (1) oil strainer bolt. Remove the oil strainer and gasket.


-Remove the (3) bolts under the oil strainer.



-Remove the oil filter connect because there is the final bolt under it holding the lower block. Use the 12mm hex shaft socket for this. It should not require much force.





-Remove the final bolt



-To remove the bottom end, place a large flat screwdriver in the recessed grooves on each end of the block. Pry upward and lift off.


Step 14:
Remove the pistons and rods
-Use a 12 point socket and remove each of the two cap bolts on each piston rod. Loosen one side a half turn, then the other until both bolts turn easily.
-Completely unscrew each bolt and remove the cap.
-push the piston and rod assembly downward and out of the block.
-re-assemble the rod cap to keep the bearing in place and not lose the bolts.

Step 15:
Remove the crankshaft
-use a 12-point socket to loosen the bolts from the caps. Work similar to the head bolt pattern, from top to bottom and outside in, turning 1/4 turn at a time until all bolts are loose.


-remove the caps. They are numbered and with an arrow pointing to the sprocket end so they are impossible to mix up.
-remove the crankshaft and set it down gently in a place where it will not be disturbed. Cover it with a shop rag to prevent dust and grit buildup.

-remove the journal bearings and thrust washers if they did not fall out when you removed the crankshaft. The journal bearings will have a 1,2,or 3 laser marked on them. Be sure to note the size of each bearing and position if you intend on replacing it with new OEM ones.


DONE!
Congrats! YOu have now successfully disassembled the block. It is now ready to be sent out for any machine work needed. If you wash it down before sending it out, immediately dry the cylinder walls or they will rust.



I would strongly recommend replacing the pistons and rods, especially if you are going foced induction. here is the side by side comparisson to illustrate. The stock rod is simply cast from powdered steel. The replacement Crower rods are milled from a single block of forged steel and include a brass ring insert on the top end for the wrist pin since there is not a bearing there.



Once you've rebuilt your motor, you can add something like this.

[vettereddie]

Reserved for future use

[vettereddie]

More reserved for future use

[vettereddie]

Even more reserved for future use

[vettereddie]

This is the last one, I swear.

[Dr. Mike]

very good write up, Stickey?

[Black Shark]

lol the second Step 5 pic is the shit!

[Krazylowgsx]

oh man... this is gonna be freakn awesome!!!!!! you got me all excited and shit!!

[vettereddie]

If you liked that, then does this make you happy?

[icebox06]

wow thanks 4 tha heads up view, haha! what an awsome thread! i cant wait to see more, 250 for the engine wow thats also sweet.

[xbgod]

Enjoy those Crower rods, Brian and I designed those in 2006 after PRI in Orlando, Fl. Let me know how you like them. We designed 2 different sets. one required you to notch the block the other didn't. You want to talk with Nick Arias or one of his people their for pistons. I just finished up a new set for my self that are ceramic coated and gas ported. I think they would be a great asset to your build. If you have trouble getting or needing race built parts for that motor let me know, mine is full race built with full standalone ECU. You can look at my Bio and read some of my engine specs.

Enjoy your build

XBGOD

[Dark_Toaster]

Well i guess if i come up with some money i know who im gonna call

[xbgod]

Always willing to help a Scion brother.

[theatreofmagic]

XBGod, The engine looks AWESOME!! But if you don't mind me asking, What kind of HP are you getting and what's the roundabout total of $$$ that you've got in to put it there?

[xbgod]

The motor thats on this thread is vettereddie's I've been talking with him on his project. My motor if you clicked on my profile is full race. So I'm assuming you looked at my set set up and pics on my profile. Currently I was making 223wp with turbo and no nitrous. My new set up has a new Sheet metal aluminum intake manifold with a much larger plenum with a 680cc injector and a 255L fuel pump. so I also doubled my injectors and fuel pump. Old injectors were 380cc and pump was 165L. So if my math is correct I should be at about 261-268wp before nitrous. and 361-368 with nitrous. Im running a 100 shot. Cost on what I've done, motor only to include all power adders, machine work and stand alone ECU about: $ 18,000.00. The car it self in total mods 52,000.00. Thats my chrom-molly 12 point cage. custom dash, Sparco everything and well if you just look at my profile pic album it says it all. All specs and mods I have on file for eveyone to view for ideas. I know of no one to date that has as much R&D as I do or the mods I have. I'm willing to help anybody trying to do a build or put them in contact with the right people to make their ride as they want it.

[vettereddie]

Like xBGod said, he's building a race motor for non-street application. My build is much less aggressive, I'm building it for reliable daily-driving turbo performance. Also, I have an automatic transmission that will limit the current build without an extra $1-2k in strengthening it. I do have a spare transmission on hand that I may decide to build next year, but one thing at a time.

I'm aiming for 140 HP at the wheels, but the real goal is to just tune to whatever the max is that the stock tC injectors can safely handle without leaning out too much. I'd estimate the final build will run me around $4,000 for everything. That is with me doing the majority of the labor, expect much higher prices if you have a shop do it. My machining was dirt cheap. The block being honed and bored was $150, getting the intake piping welded was $130, and head work was only $50 because one of my friends from high school happens to build 351's at his house and has a flow bench there.

I'm running Wiseco pistons at 10:1, so that will also limit the build but hopefully make it much easier to cold start and drive when not in boost. They have been coated with a dry lube side skirt and a ceramic thermal reflective dome coat. Right now it will just be tuned on eManage blue. People trash it but it gave me a great, consistant and smooth AF/R on the Greddy supercharger, and PTuning should be able to maximize what it will do.

[THansenite]

Originally Posted by xbgod

So if my math is correct I should be at about 261-268wp before nitrous. and 361-368 with nitrous. Im running a 100 shot.

You seem like you know your stuff, but this comment kind of caught my eye. I am not 100%, but I didn't think a 100 shot meant exactly that much horsepower. I thought it was a rough estimate of the jet size and actual numbers would be less at the wheels. Again, I am not fully schooled in the world of nitrous, just curious.

[xbgod]

It's the pill size you run in the nozzels that determine the shot. Yes it's a close guesstement but for the most part it's dead on. give or take 12 hp

[vettereddie]

Checked the rod clearance today. The cylinder wall will need to be watched. I'll grab pics next weekend.

[TheFOSS]

Awsome writeup and progress.. Any new pics or things that have been done?? I've got a spair engine sitting in the garage too, might have to try something like this..