Fixing the headlight??

[dj short-e]

Ok, so my headlight went out (in the TC) the other day.. and i figured it was just the bulb, so i got some new hyperwhites. NOPE! It was not the bulb but in fact the connector had either melted or split.. i couldnt tell. Anyways, i took it to scion and they told me i COULD buy the connector, and wire but they aren't color coded and do not come with directions which one is which and thats kind of important. OR he says you can buy the entire harness for like $400.. ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!? the freakin' headlight went out. I can buy an HID kit for less than that.

Anyways, i guess i started this to ask.. what is the best way to go about fixing a FUNKED up headlight connector on the Tc? I'm guessing, just buy the connextor and HOPE i put it on right?!? haha.. i dont want it to happen again though AND i don't want to get ANOTHER ticket for it.

[slimsdizz]

well i think the guys over at oznium forums could help with the connector wiring if it is three pronged just like the XA or XB i would just buy a new connector you can even find them on ebay made by nokya if it's an H4 and I would use the original as a guide face the two the same way and transfer the wires over. I wouldn't think it would be too hard to do. since your fried connector would serve as a model use a cheap bulb as your test bulb when you hook it back up. I am guesssing you melted the connector because it got to hot you may be looking at replacing a little bit of wiring too. just some friendley advice if you want to run high wattage bulbs no matter the size buy good bulbs. I am refering to good bulbs that you cannot buy in local stores or local performance shops. most of these performance shops sell so called performance bulbs and they draw to much current and are not efficent so they get real hot and most of them don't last too awful long. before oyu make the hid plunge unless you have projecotrs I would look into geting some Narva or osram bulbs. do a gogle search for Daniel Stern lighting you can buy very high wattage bulbs that run cool. I am currentley runnning a 100/130 watt unshielded rally narva bulbs in my XA and they don't get hot and they throw out alot more light then when I had my 3000k hid's in an open housing. If your gonna have to take the HID plunge as long as their in projectors I would go to HID Planet.com they seem to have some really amazing setups at great costs and their forums are regarded as some of the best on lighting on the internet. they could also help you solve your lighting wiring issue if you pull the schematic out of scion life's manuals and post it in their halogen section at hid planet those guys are awesome and very helpful with lighting. HID's are for projectors and High end halogens are for open light housings get some good german made imported rare halogens from daniel stern and you will see the diffrence majorley. your talking bulbs that last 4-5 years for 30 bucks that will outshine any HID setup in an open light housing in my opinion. a picture of your melted connector would help alot too then we could see exactley what your working with. but spending 400 bucks at the dealership is crazy I am sure there is a inexpensive solution to this issue if we explore it and we might even be able to upgrade your lighting while we are at it the right way. here si the link the daniel stern lighting I am sure he has the parts you need to fix yor problem at a reasonable price http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html give him a call if he isn't in leave a message he will call you back and most likley solve your problem over the phone and get the stuff shipped out to you to fix it the guy is a genius when it comes to halogens it seems there is even a conversion people are doing with the 9006 bulbs which I think is what you have in your car after some brief research. he will know for sure.

[dj short-e]

well i think the guys over at oznium forums could help with the connector wiring if it is three pronged just like the XA or XB i would just buy a new connector you can even find them on ebay made by nokya if it's an H4 and I would use the original as a guide face the two the same way and transfer the wires over. I wouldn't think it would be too hard to do. since your fried connector would serve as a model use a cheap bulb as your test bulb when you hook it back up. I am guesssing you melted the connector because it got to hot you may be looking at replacing a little bit of wiring too. just some friendley advice if you want to run high wattage bulbs no matter the size buy good bulbs. I am refering to good bulbs that you cannot buy in local stores or local performance shops. most of these performance shops sell so called performance bulbs and they draw to much current and are not efficent so they get real hot and most of them don't last too awful long. before oyu make the hid plunge unless you have projecotrs I would look into geting some Narva or osram bulbs. do a gogle search for Daniel Stern lighting you can buy very high wattage bulbs that run cool. I am currentley runnning a 100/130 watt unshielded rally narva bulbs in my XA and they don't get hot and they throw out alot more light then when I had my 3000k hid's in an open housing. If your gonna have to take the HID plunge as long as their in projectors I would go to HID Planet.com they seem to have some really amazing setups at great costs and their forums are regarded as some of the best on lighting on the internet. they could also help you solve your lighting wiring issue if you pull the schematic out of scion life's manuals and post it in their halogen section at hid planet those guys are awesome and very helpful with lighting. HID's are for projectors and High end halogens are for open light housings get some good german made imported rare halogens from daniel stern and you will see the diffrence majorley. your talking bulbs that last 4-5 years for 30 bucks that will outshine any HID setup in an open light housing in my opinion. a picture of your melted connector would help alot too then we could see exactley what your working with. but spending 400 bucks at the dealership is crazy I am sure there is a inexpensive solution to this issue if we explore it and we might even be able to upgrade your lighting while we are at it the right way. here si the link the daniel stern lighting I am sure he has the parts you need to fix yor problem at a reasonable price http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html give him a call if he isn't in leave a message he will call you back and most likley solve your problem over the phone and get the stuff shipped out to you to fix it the guy is a genius when it comes to halogens it seems there is even a conversion people are doing with the 9006 bulbs which I think is what you have in your car after some brief research. he will know for sure.

Its a 2 prong/hole connector.. the headlight bulb is the part that has the prongs actually. That connects in the pronge holes of the connector. I actually bought the connector last night at scion but they didnt have the wires of the terminals. They had to order those and said they are not color coded like the headlight wires so i either have to guess which is which or have them do it.. they kinda act likes pricks when you want to install something yourself.. they want you to pay them to do it.

[_Keith_]

Ok, so my headlight went out (in the TC) the other day.. and i figured it was just the bulb, so i got some new hyperwhites. NOPE! It was not the bulb but in fact the connector had either melted or split.. i couldnt tell. Anyways, i took it to scion and they told me i COULD buy the connector, and wire but they aren't color coded and do not come with directions which one is which and thats kind of important. OR he says you can buy the entire harness for like $400.. ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!? the freakin' headlight went out. I can buy an HID kit for less than that.

Anyways, i guess i started this to ask.. what is the best way to go about fixing a FUNKED up headlight connector on the Tc? I'm guessing, just buy the connextor and HOPE i put it on right?!? haha.. i dont want it to happen again though AND i don't want to get ANOTHER ticket for it.


First off they wont warrnty it?

[85ssp]

you work on base right?
if so i think you parked next to me today

me>>>>>>white tc with paper plates from norwalk still

i might be able to give you a hand

[dj short-e]

you work on base right?
if so i think you parked next to me today

me>>>>>>white tc with paper plates from norwalk still

i might be able to give you a hand

haha cool.. i put a flyer on your car a long time ago for our Kern County chapter of scikotics.. we made another chapter for antelope valley.. you should come out sometime..we meet at Crazy Otto's on Ave. I in Lancaster on friday nights at 7pm. I work at bldg. 1405. Stop by sometime if you get the chance.

KEITH: NO they don't warranty it... for some stupid reason.

[jwaj2002]

probably because they expect them to melt down when using the non stock wattage bulbs, shame you can't buy the plug and wires from a junk yard though

[85ssp]

yeah i couldn't make it out there for that xmas thing, (d1 championships were that day i think), wanted to though
yeah i work over in 1440
i live right near that crazy ottos, so ill prolly stop by there sometime.

for your headlight, if i understand this correctly, they only gave you the plastic connector that connects to the bulb with absolutely no wiring?

then they prolly ordered 2 15" pieces of wire with crimps on them to slip into the connector for you lol, hope they weren't expensive or took to long to get there.

the headlights have a w/b wire that is for ground and the other wire is red or green depending on side and then leads to the relay/junction box

the bulbs will either do one of 2 things either they dont care about polarity and you could hook up either wire to either terminal, because all you are doing is completing a circuit(normal)

or the bulbs circuitry could be dependent and the worst thing that would happen is the bulb wont come on, so then you just switch the wire around.

so, just strip the wires twist the connector in hook it up and turn on the lights, if it lights up solder and heatshrink em back together(DONT use crimps) in this order, if it doesn't light, untwist switch wires and try again, if nothing here and you know bulb is good move up the wire chain checking the relay, but you shouldn't have to go this far.

if you need a hand and you have the stuff, i could help you during lunch or something.
ill pm you my base email

g/l

[Krdshrk]

Here's what you do - I assume you were using those cheapass crap lumincs bulbs? Take the stock bulbs and put them back in, then go to your dealership and tell them that it fried for no reason - they'll replace it under warranty.

Next time, don't use cheap crap higher-wattage bulbs.

[dj short-e]

yeah i couldn't make it out there for that xmas thing, (d1 championships were that day i think), wanted to though
yeah i work over in 1440
i live right near that crazy ottos, so ill prolly stop by there sometime.

for your headlight, if i understand this correctly, they only gave you the plastic connector that connects to the bulb with absolutely no wiring?

then they prolly ordered 2 15" pieces of wire with crimps on them to slip into the connector for you lol, hope they weren't expensive or took to long to get there.

the headlights have a w/b wire that is for ground and the other wire is red or green depending on side and then leads to the relay/junction box

the bulbs will either do one of 2 things either they dont care about polarity and you could hook up either wire to either terminal, because all you are doing is completing a circuit(normal)

or the bulbs circuitry could be dependent and the worst thing that would happen is the bulb wont come on, so then you just switch the wire around.

so, just strip the wires twist the connector in hook it up and turn on the lights, if it lights up solder and heatshrink em back together(DONT use crimps) in this order, if it doesn't light, untwist switch wires and try again, if nothing here and you know bulb is good move up the wire chain checking the relay, but you shouldn't have to go this far.

if you need a hand and you have the stuff, i could help you during lunch or something.
ill pm you my base email

g/l


YES, they gave me JUST the plastic connector and ordered the wires and terminals. ($30 not too bad) and i think the wires are white and red to the headlight. but its sounds easy enough to fix. the wires and terminals will be in today but im working until 8pm tonight so i wont be able to pick them up until tomorrow. guess we'll see how it works.. If not i guess i can always take it back to toyota with the stock bulb (if i have them) and tell them it just melted with the stock bulb in it) haha

[Krdshrk]

Honestly - that's what a lot of people have done - fried their headlight harnesses with luminics then took 'em back to the dealership to fix it.

[dj short-e]

Honestly - that's what a lot of people have done - fried their headlight harnesses with luminics then took 'em back to the dealership to fix it.

actually they aren't luminics.. i think they're matrix.. not sure.. PIAA makes some also but they're freakin' $75 a pair! aahahaha.. ya right.. ooh

[_Keith_]

actually they aren't luminics.. i think they're matrix.. not sure.. PIAA makes some also but they're freakin' $75 a pair! aahahaha.. ya right.. ooh


Yea but if the piaa ones stop working.. they replace them free within the first year.... :shock: