vettereddie
08-05-2008, 09:30 AM
I'm starting a project to go BIG for next season. Currently, I have a Greddy supercharger and a spare 1NZFE, and just ordered 10:1 Wiseco pistons. I'll also be putting in Crower rods, Toga bearings, port and polish the head, and knife edge the throttle body.
The supercharger puts out about 7psi currently. I also have a Weapon-R short intake, Strup headers, and a 2 1/4" free flowing cat back exhaust w/ a Flowmaster Hushpower II muffler. I'm trying to get more power into the built engine and am just figuring out which route to go.
Option #1: eBay the supercharger and get a turbo: I'd be selling for $1500 and going with either the Greddy turbo w/ intercooler, or the 365 kit if it comes out.
Option #2: Keep the supercharger, get a custom pulley for the alternator (it is a two pulley design on the alternator, I'd keep the main belt pulley stock radius and the one driving the charger bigger. If I made the actual supercharger pulley smaller, the belt would most likely slip). I'd also add methanol injection to account for the excess heat generated by the higher compression. This option assumes the blower is currently running under it's 14k RPM max spool.
Option #3: This is the fun one. Serial twincharge configuration. The supercharger keeps the throttle body inthe stock location. Add a turbocharger w/ an intercooler to the front. The blower is positive displacement, so it shouldn't need to work any harder to compress from 5 to 12 psi than it would from 0 to 7 psi given the turbo is feeding it pre-compressed air. If I can get a complete turbo minus engine management (supercharger already has it) for under $1500 I'll do this. The cheapest I've found the Greddy turbo (w/o intercooler) for is $2200.
Option #4: Keep it stock with just I/H/E. Around 21k miles, I had a rod failure and currently am running n/a on a stock block. I still do not know the cause of failure. It happened on a dry day cruising at 60 mph. Dealer analysis said it was hydrolock from the CAI, and that water had gotten in a few days earlier and sat in the pipe below the TRD filter, just happening to get sucked in after 20 minutes. Remotely possible, but not real probable. it did look like water ingestion though, so I may have had a bad head gasket. I'll be measuring the head bolts as well for elongation. I did not see a water path on the head or cylinder top, but their is a residue on the wall of #3 and the valves for #1 and 3 are much cleaner than the others, the dealer saying they were in affect steam cleaned. There wasn't enough oil or coolant left to test.
Option #5: Boost and juice. OEM Greddy supercharger + wet nitrous kit for mainly track use. This would be the cheapest and easiest way to get my track time down, I'm just not sure what a built 1NZ-FE can handle, 55 HP shot hopefully. On top of the blower, that would be 169 WHP.
Pretty pictures:
Old configuration
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7947/picture013yr7.jpg
Current configuration
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4145/newenginepics013qo5.jpg
The supercharger puts out about 7psi currently. I also have a Weapon-R short intake, Strup headers, and a 2 1/4" free flowing cat back exhaust w/ a Flowmaster Hushpower II muffler. I'm trying to get more power into the built engine and am just figuring out which route to go.
Option #1: eBay the supercharger and get a turbo: I'd be selling for $1500 and going with either the Greddy turbo w/ intercooler, or the 365 kit if it comes out.
Option #2: Keep the supercharger, get a custom pulley for the alternator (it is a two pulley design on the alternator, I'd keep the main belt pulley stock radius and the one driving the charger bigger. If I made the actual supercharger pulley smaller, the belt would most likely slip). I'd also add methanol injection to account for the excess heat generated by the higher compression. This option assumes the blower is currently running under it's 14k RPM max spool.
Option #3: This is the fun one. Serial twincharge configuration. The supercharger keeps the throttle body inthe stock location. Add a turbocharger w/ an intercooler to the front. The blower is positive displacement, so it shouldn't need to work any harder to compress from 5 to 12 psi than it would from 0 to 7 psi given the turbo is feeding it pre-compressed air. If I can get a complete turbo minus engine management (supercharger already has it) for under $1500 I'll do this. The cheapest I've found the Greddy turbo (w/o intercooler) for is $2200.
Option #4: Keep it stock with just I/H/E. Around 21k miles, I had a rod failure and currently am running n/a on a stock block. I still do not know the cause of failure. It happened on a dry day cruising at 60 mph. Dealer analysis said it was hydrolock from the CAI, and that water had gotten in a few days earlier and sat in the pipe below the TRD filter, just happening to get sucked in after 20 minutes. Remotely possible, but not real probable. it did look like water ingestion though, so I may have had a bad head gasket. I'll be measuring the head bolts as well for elongation. I did not see a water path on the head or cylinder top, but their is a residue on the wall of #3 and the valves for #1 and 3 are much cleaner than the others, the dealer saying they were in affect steam cleaned. There wasn't enough oil or coolant left to test.
Option #5: Boost and juice. OEM Greddy supercharger + wet nitrous kit for mainly track use. This would be the cheapest and easiest way to get my track time down, I'm just not sure what a built 1NZ-FE can handle, 55 HP shot hopefully. On top of the blower, that would be 169 WHP.
Pretty pictures:
Old configuration
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7947/picture013yr7.jpg
Current configuration
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4145/newenginepics013qo5.jpg