SHABBY3
04-03-2011, 10:51 PM
I am not responsible if you brake your car or yourself doing this mod.
After several requests, this is how I made my JDM Bubble Shifter work in my 2006.5 auto xB with out making this a "Slap Stick"
Finished product.
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Wig_SplitterX/SHABBYs%20Build/131.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Wig_SplitterX/SHABBYs%20Build/132.jpg
I first used this DIY thread on ClubxB
Automatic Shifter Knob replacement and lowering (http://www.clubxb.com/forums/f17/automatic-shifter-knob-replacement-lowering-5501.html)
This DIY was a bit confusing at first. He mentioned to use 10mm and 12mm wrenches but for me the only ratchet I needed was a 12mm. Also he mentions to "remove all the wire hold downs" so I went ahead and removed all the clips that hold the wires together but instead he really should have said disconnect all the plugs to the stock shifter. Later once you have everything out of the car he said "un hook the wire all the way to the shift knob". There is actually no way to "unhook" that wire. That wire needs to actually be cut with a wire cutter. Other then that, you get the idea to get the shifter out of the car.
Once you have everything out of the car and the stock shift knob off carefully inspect and understand how the shifter actually works. When you press down on the long plastic white piece, that gives you the ability to put your car in gear. All we need to do is simply figure out a way to mount our new M/T knob on that white piece.
Believe it or not this only cost me 20 cents of stuff that I didn't already have in my garage.
The size knob I used was a 10mm x 1.25" or a 12mm x 1.25". I got rid of the 10mm adapter and used only the 12mm x 1.25" shaft.
At a hardware store find some clear plastic tubing that fits very tight in the bottom of your knob. So tight that it actually threads it's self in. You will only need about 3" of hose. That's what cost me 20 cents.
Looking at the thin plastic part of your shifter, test fit you knob on it. Chances are there is way too much plastic left on you stock sifter and doesn't look right. Using a dermal, cut as much of the plastic part off as you like keeping in mind that there needs to be a minimum of 1/2" to 3/4" from the metal part of the shifter to be able to put your car in gear. I ended up cutting about 2" of the metal part exposing more of the white plastic part and cutting more of the plastic part to accommodate. It should look like this.
Notice the distance between the clear plastic hose to the metal part of the shifter. That's the perfect amount needed to be able to put your car in gear.
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Wig_SplitterX/SHABBYs%20Build/133.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Wig_SplitterX/SHABBYs%20Build/134.jpg
Once you are comfortable with the height of your knob and have tested to make sure you can actually put it in gear then take some heavy duty plastic epoxy the entire inside of the clear plastic hose and put it in place. This is what I used.
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Wig_SplitterX/SHABBYs%20Build/135.jpg
I recommend leaving the epoxy cure overnight before reinstalling everything.
I knew that I was going to make a boot to match the rest of my interior but it's completely up to you if you want a boot. I guess I would now that it looks like your car is a stick.
Enjoy!
--SHABBY3
After several requests, this is how I made my JDM Bubble Shifter work in my 2006.5 auto xB with out making this a "Slap Stick"
Finished product.
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Wig_SplitterX/SHABBYs%20Build/131.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Wig_SplitterX/SHABBYs%20Build/132.jpg
I first used this DIY thread on ClubxB
Automatic Shifter Knob replacement and lowering (http://www.clubxb.com/forums/f17/automatic-shifter-knob-replacement-lowering-5501.html)
This DIY was a bit confusing at first. He mentioned to use 10mm and 12mm wrenches but for me the only ratchet I needed was a 12mm. Also he mentions to "remove all the wire hold downs" so I went ahead and removed all the clips that hold the wires together but instead he really should have said disconnect all the plugs to the stock shifter. Later once you have everything out of the car he said "un hook the wire all the way to the shift knob". There is actually no way to "unhook" that wire. That wire needs to actually be cut with a wire cutter. Other then that, you get the idea to get the shifter out of the car.
Once you have everything out of the car and the stock shift knob off carefully inspect and understand how the shifter actually works. When you press down on the long plastic white piece, that gives you the ability to put your car in gear. All we need to do is simply figure out a way to mount our new M/T knob on that white piece.
Believe it or not this only cost me 20 cents of stuff that I didn't already have in my garage.
The size knob I used was a 10mm x 1.25" or a 12mm x 1.25". I got rid of the 10mm adapter and used only the 12mm x 1.25" shaft.
At a hardware store find some clear plastic tubing that fits very tight in the bottom of your knob. So tight that it actually threads it's self in. You will only need about 3" of hose. That's what cost me 20 cents.
Looking at the thin plastic part of your shifter, test fit you knob on it. Chances are there is way too much plastic left on you stock sifter and doesn't look right. Using a dermal, cut as much of the plastic part off as you like keeping in mind that there needs to be a minimum of 1/2" to 3/4" from the metal part of the shifter to be able to put your car in gear. I ended up cutting about 2" of the metal part exposing more of the white plastic part and cutting more of the plastic part to accommodate. It should look like this.
Notice the distance between the clear plastic hose to the metal part of the shifter. That's the perfect amount needed to be able to put your car in gear.
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Wig_SplitterX/SHABBYs%20Build/133.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Wig_SplitterX/SHABBYs%20Build/134.jpg
Once you are comfortable with the height of your knob and have tested to make sure you can actually put it in gear then take some heavy duty plastic epoxy the entire inside of the clear plastic hose and put it in place. This is what I used.
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Wig_SplitterX/SHABBYs%20Build/135.jpg
I recommend leaving the epoxy cure overnight before reinstalling everything.
I knew that I was going to make a boot to match the rest of my interior but it's completely up to you if you want a boot. I guess I would now that it looks like your car is a stick.
Enjoy!
--SHABBY3