1nz-fe racing head

[xbgod]

This has been a pain-staking pain in the ass, but like all good things sometimes it takes patience, persistance and of course money.

I have been bouncing back and fourth between cam shops and machine shops for this head and have now finally got it underway.

As most of you know I started with Bill at Gude Racing and was a little bit hesitant because of lack of proven information. So I began doing other research and started making calls to other people in the industry and ended up making some good headway.

This has now become a collective effort on this head and has taken 3 shops and my tunner to come to an effective way to tackle this project. As you know from my other thread I've done away with the VVTI. This is because it interfears with my ability to retard timming effectively. Yes I have full stand alone ECU (Micro-Tech) However it signals my stock ecu to turn on the vvti. With running it this way the stock ecu gets confused when I start to retard timming and limits me on how much boost I can run. So you can now see why I've eliminated it. The draw back was I had no way to make the engine breathe any better, so it was off to find someone who had alot of experience with this type of situation.

Webb Cams had the answers; specializing in drag racing and understanding that VVTI is no way to drag race they knew exactly what to do. They knew the math it would take to under go this project by using deciding factors such as my turbo size, TB size and Compression. With all this they came up with some numbers for me.

Next we have Vance & Hines who had some tricks up their sleve when it came to head work. They knew it would take much more than a port and polish job to get me what I needed, not to mention custom buckets for the valves which they did not have which is where Gude Racing comes back into play.

After taking all this information from Webb cams and Vance & Hines motorsports, Joe V. From Vance & Hines thought it to be best to have Bill at gude do most of the work since he already has springs and custom buckets for the head.

My new head will be O-ringed and milled at Vance & Hines then sent back to Gude for all porting, polishing, final machine work and assembly as well as the cam work.

Specs for my cams I'm keeping secret not to mention would be different for someone else depending on application.

Valves are by Ferrara. Intake is titanium exhaust is steel + 1mm oversized.
Head gasket is by Cometic (copper)

Well here you have it, what it has taken to build a full all out race head for this motor.

time it has taken to get this accomplished 2 years

Cost to do this 3,500.00

Having the badest 1nz-fe Head.......Priceless


XBG

[Timindabox]

Now correct me if I'm wrong but, if your running microtech through your stock ecu, and the ecu is still controlling the engines timing, then your not running it as a full stand-alone. A full stand alone will control all aspects of your engines operation within itself, not through the stock computer.

[xbgod]

Yes the Micro-Tech is full standalone, however......

The aux. wire that comes off the Micro-Tech ties into the stock vvti pin-out on the stock ECU.

Micro-Tech Does not have the ability to control VVTI through out the spectrum. Micro-tech is designed for all out racing. It dosen't care about Maf sensors or VVTI. It was designed for one thing and that is racing.

The only true standalone to run VVTI is Motec and since it's around 6,500 for what I would need it for, it dosen't serve it's purpose.

The whole reason for this race head is so I need not worry about the VVTI. I'm going racing all I want to do is go fast. The Cams are the heart of the motor and with my big ass turbo the stock grind and VVTI just don't work for me.

there are a few types of stand-alone ECU's out there. You might want to read up on some and educate your self so you know which ones do what type of tuning.

The reason ther are no real cam packages or head mods for this motor is most people will never do what I'm doing. Most are satisfied with some shit like Greddy blue or even worse the piggy back AEM which really dosen't control your VVTI.

I need better Duration, Lift and my centers to be more like on 114.

This is what it takes to do it.

XBG

[heloboby7]

Yes the Micro-Tech is full standalone, however......

The aux. wire that comes off the Micro-Tech ties into the stock vvti pin-out on the stock ECU.

Micro-Tech Does not have the ability to control VVTI through out the spectrum. Micro-tech is designed for all out racing. It dosen't care about Maf sensors or VVTI. It was designed for one thing and that is racing.

The only true standalone to run VVTI is Motec and since it's around 6,500 for what I would need it for, it dosen't serve it's purpose.

The whole reason for this race head is so I need not worry about the VVTI. I'm going racing all I want to do is go fast. The Cams are the heart of the motor and with my big ass turbo the stock grind and VVTI just don't work for me.

there are a few types of stand-alone ECU's out there. You might want to read up on some and educate your self so you know which ones do what type of tuning.

The reason ther are no real cam packages or head mods for this motor is most people will never do what I'm doing. Most are satisfied with some shit like Greddy blue or even worse the piggy back AEM which really dosen't control your VVTI.

I need better Duration, Lift and my centers to be more like on 114.

This is what it takes to do it.

XBG

Maybe you should educate yourself. There are other ECUs that can control VVTi such as the ViPec system. I would like you to explain how you "signaled" the factory ECU to control VVTi with an aux wire from the microtech. As we know, intake cam position can change depending on throttle position, engine load, and RPM. Your microtech should be in full control of ignition timing and the cam should be at its best power making position at WOT. How were you having problems with ignition timing when even a cheap piggyback like an FIC can effectively control retard? I'm just a Toyota Expert tech with Microtech experince looking for some answers to some of my ?'s

[xbgod]

If you had any Micro-Tech Experience then you would know on a LT10 that it has 2 aux out puts to signal other devices you would also know microtech could signal to turn on the vvti but have no way to tune it properly. And Mr. expert you would know VVTI is variable valve time and means it's under constant change depending on load. VVTI is responsable for torque and fuel economy so when trying to tune a race car I do not need it to be varied under different loads. AS far as hooking it up if you know the 1nz-fe motor you'll notice the pneumatic valve on the front of the motor, all you need to do is actuate it.

While there are a couple of ecu's that do vvti, Motec is the only one that does it right.

If you followed the vvti thread I posted you understand it. Even Paul at Dezod knows what it takes to make it right. I've even delt with Bob Gardner out at TRD which I'm sure knows his shit since he's part of the research and development team for TRD.

The reason for the race cams is to do away with the VVTI thats where this thread was headed.

XBG

[heloboby7]

I am very aware of the Microtech's aux signals. I wanted to know how you were signaling the stock ECU to control the VVTi like you originally said. If you're just talking about applying 12V straight to the solenoid as a function of RPM, then yes, many standalones can do that. I don't see why you're making things sound more complicated than they really are. In fact, most standalones can control the vvti actuator using a PWM signal and actually vary the cam based on another signal such as RPM or load. Very few however have the sampling resolution or ability to map the VVTi in 3d like it was meant to. There is no need to talk down to me, all I'm looking for are answers. So did you remove the VVTi actuator completely? Are you still using the VVTi cam sprocket with the mechanism welded or have you switched to a rigid sprocket?

[Timindabox]

Pneumatic valve ? You mean the electric solenoid? Last I checked our cars didn't have an air system on them to control such devices.

[heloboby7]

Pneumatic valve ? You mean the electric solenoid? Last I checked our cars didn't have an air system on them to control such devices.

Ouch. You make me look bad. :crybaby2: I didn't even catch that, however, I'm sure many xB's have air compressors to run other things.:bootyshake: Maybe his is rerouted lolz roflcopters. (A joke)

[xbgod]

you are right, I stand corrected;electric valve. Was working on another project with a dragster buddy of mine with a air shifter and still had that on my mind while responding to this.

And with the Micro-tech since there is no MAF used there is no way to do the 3d maping for VVTI which is another reason for me to loose it.

My whole set-up is based upon the kiss method. (keep it simple stupid).
Micro-tech is really like an MSD on Steroids. This head thats being made for me will take and operate under 30 lb of boost, which is why it's being o-ringed.

This head package is designed for one thing and thats power. The stock cams could never let this thing breathe like it needs to nor accept the boost I'm pushing to it.

My whole goal is to be as close to 400hp as possible and after dealing with WEBB Cams it was to my better interest to loose the vvti for drag racing and set it up like a regular drag car.

XBG

[heloboby7]

What we've established is that the Microtech turns the VVTi system into a VVT system. Basically losing the "intelligence" part. It has nothing to do with not having a MAF. Load can be calculated using a speed density system as well. It's just the Microtech system does not have the capability. I owned an LT8 system about 5 years ago. Not a whole lot has changed since then. But anyways, back to my questions. Did you remove the VVTi OCV or just unplug it? What does your intake cam sprocket look like?

[xbgod]

Removed everything. Webb Cams has a alumnum plug where the VVTI actuator bolted into. And removed the entire stock ecu. The car is solely micro-tech. Webb has done alot of vvti delete kits especially for honda, go figure. But this is where I stand now, so well see when I get home if all holds true with what Webb has suggested.

Gotta run gentleman, not all combat trops have left Iraq don't be fooled by the media. Mission just came up, be back later.

XBG

[xbgod]

Ok, I'm back...got a little crazy out here with the transition of power. Well here is where I stand on the race head.

Specs on my cams are as follows:

428 lift Intake
400 lift Exhaust
238 Duration
114 on centers

The head is at Vance & Hinze getting O-ringed and Cometic is doing a copper gasket for it. Then it's back to Gude to put the Ferrara valve train in and finish the rest of the head work.

Still working with ARP on the head studs. I'll post the info on that as soon as I have the kit put together.

The idle should be fun to play with but well see how it goes.

XBG

[vettereddie]

So are you running a fixed timing intake cam now then with the VVT actuator delete? Also, does the aluminum plug just block the oil feed that was going to the actuator or is it just re-directed into the valve assembly? I was going to run a modded head but ran into structural issues around the injector seals, went too agressive on the grind and was getting air leaks. Backed off to a stock head for the moment, figured any efficiency loss could be re-gained by upping the boost, then again I'm only looking for 150 whp.

[xbgod]

Who was working your head? or were you doing it your self? As far as my set up goes My tuner wants to try two different things.

A. Still try my set up as VVT

B. Then try it as old school raw racing tune w/ the cams i'm using.

Decisions will be made on the VVTI delete as we move forward with the tuning process.

I have all day at the dyno and even a second day if need be. So were going to use the tune that works best.

XBG