DIY On Chaging Brake Rotors

[triniosito]

Is There one???

[Krdshrk]

Don't think so. Look on SL for the DIY Brake pad change instructions. You can undo the 2nd bolt on the calipers and take 'em off completely then you should be able to use a mallet to loosen the rotor and then pull it off.

[2dot4]

if you need help, you can PM me.

basic steps are - remove the wheel, then the two small bolts holding the caliper to it's bracket (on the backside of the caliper and rotor), then remove the two larger bolts holding the bracket in place. The caliper will need to be hung out of the way (don't disconnect the brake line, or you'll have to bleed your brakes, and that's just another step you don't need to do). The bracket will come out completely, just set it aside.

Once the caliper and bracket are out of the way, and the pads are removed, the rotor should pull off - if you have a hard time (which you shouldn't), just tap the rotor from behind and it'll come off.

For reassembly, put the rotor on, then the caliper bracket, then the brake pads, then the caliper, bolt it all back in place, slap the wheel back on and you're done.

Very easy - first timers should expect maybe 60 minutes to do the front two rotors. No sweat.

If you're replacing your pads at this point, you need to push the piston inside the caliper back in before you put everything back together - you can buy a tool at autozone or any auto parts store...or you can use a small 6" c-clamp...whatever works for you.

[DooFster]

if you have a hard time (which you shouldn't), just tap the rotor from behind and it'll come off.

To be honest, that's not really a good idea (certified brake-tech here...lol). You risk putting small dents into the rotor, or chipping it, which could ruin your pads and cause a problem in case you have to 'downgrade' your brakes for any reason.

Tap on the thick inner ring just on the outside of your wheel bearing on the front of the rotor in a circular motion to loosen your rotor if it does not come off that easily.


DO NOT HIT THE WHEEL BEARING COVER! You'd cause even more pain and possibly jack up your wheel bearing!

While you're at it, you might as well get yourself some new pads, since you're getting new rotors. Your brakes will perform a whole lot better if you get new pads...

[Go4shoped]

the guys above me got the gist of it. but a few things:

Change your pads if youre changing your rotors. they wear into each other evenly that way. If you are just doing the pads, you may want to get the rotors resurfaced (can only be done once on a rotor before it becomes too thin.)
Drive the car slowly, let the wheel go and press the brakes. if the car sways to one side, bleed your brakes since youre down there.
MAKE SURE THE BRAKES ARE COLD BEFORE YOU START. No need to burn yourself.

Now for the actual process. If you are changing your rotors and pads at the same time, and dont have a piston compressor or c-clamp, or if youre just too lazy to get the tool, take a small screwdriver and jam it between THE ROTOR AND THE PAD, not the pad and the piston, and pry it so the piston goes back into the caliper. Then get a bigger screwdriver and keep going until the piston is back all the way in. You do all of this through the opening in the caliper. But beware, this will ruin your old rotor and pads, so only do this if youre replacing both of them. Also, check the resivour(spelling?) after you push it back. If you dont press the brakes after youre done with one side it will probably overflow when you push back the piston on the other side of the car.

When you are changing the rotor, just unbolt the bracket (big bolts, most toyotas are 17mm if i remember correctly) and move the whole assembly to the side. Worry about the caliper itself later. The rotor should then just come off, sometimes it can be hard, but just tap lightly around the hub and it should come off.

To change the pads, like i said before, press the pistons back before doing this while the old rotors are on there unless you have a piston compressor/c-clamp. Loosen the top caliper bolt. I said LOOSEN not take out. A couple of threads are fine. Remove the bottom one.

Tip: Typically, youre supposed to grease the inside of those rubber boots with brake grease when you change your pads. Some people do, some people dont. If they dry out, theyre going to squeak and annoy the hell out of you when you have high milage. It's entirely up to you.

The caliper should be able to just swing up now. Remove the return springs (if the tc uses them) and pop the old pads out. Noting which one goes where (if they are different). Remove the shims from the back of the old pads and brush them off.

Tip: I forgot to mention this before but buy some "disc brake quiet" from a local auto parts store. Apply it to the BACK of the pad covering the entire surface then place the shim(s) over it. Also, try to keep the surface of the new rotors and pads clean from ANYTHING especially oil/grease.

Install the new pads. On some cars this will be a little tricky, Brush out the are where the tabs go, then place the bottom one in first. Then, slide the top tab in. Repeat on the other pad, put the return springs back on, and flip the caliper back down. If it doesn't go down then you didnt push the piston back in far enough. Then you NEED a piston compressor/c-clamp. Place the bottom bolt back in and tighten both of them them down. Make sure all bolts are tight. And repeat on the other side.

Rear discs are generally the same but you almost never have to change them. Maybe at like 80k intervals. The drum brakes (parking brake) will last you longer than the car will unless you dont have rear discs (but the tC does).

Notes:
1. You're probably going to freak out when you first drive the car and the brakes start smoking. Don't worry, its the disc brake quiet if you used it like i suggested.
2. Careful which pads you decide to buy. Some will produce a LOT of brake dust. Some will have really crappy stopping power (like the ones a manufacturer gave me to test out so my family would sell them in our store).
3. Take it easy on the brakes for the first 1000 miles at least. If you dont break them in right, stopping power will go down and they'll usually make a lot of noise.
4. I'm not responsible if you fudge something up. Your car, your risk.
5. The instructions are based of off various braking systems from many different toyotas/lexuses. I have still yet to change the brakes on the tC since i only have 9000 miles on it. I have only changed the brakes on the camry, tacoma, lexus es300, and gen 7, 8, and 9, and ae86 corollas.

If you're confused about something dont be afraid to ask. It sounds hard, but it really isnt. It usually takes me about 30min per wheel including jacking up the car.

[2dot4]

To be honest, that's not really a good idea (certified brake-tech here...lol). You risk putting small dents into the rotor, or chipping it,...

If you can put a dent in a rotor without breaking the hammer first, I'll give you $100.

it won't ever happen. Let alone chipping it. That was a strange post...I've never seen a certified brake tech actually believe that you can dent a rotor by tapping it loose.

And in my defense, I never said to tap it with a hammer - I just said tap it...I typically give it a tap with the butt of my hand.

[Krdshrk]

Dent the rotor? i've done it. Hammer wrapped in a towel and the rotor still dented. Yeah we hit the rotor part and not the center section.

[2dot4]

:blink:

were they hot still? I've beat on rotors senseless before because they were 10 years old and rusted to the axle, and still couldn't dent them...I've even dropped rotors, carrying them to recycling centers and the 4ft drop didn't do anything....they pretty much bullet proof....and for good reason.

[Krdshrk]

Nope.. Cold.

[2dot4]

hammers and rotors are the same metal - ever dented a hammer? lol

I've done probably 35 or so brake jobs for family and friends this past year...the handful of times I had to tap the rotor, I used my hand - when my hand didn't work, I used a hammer - I have NEVER dented a rotor, and it seems weird that you have.

Now when you're a brake tech and you service hot rotors all day, it seems more logical to put a dent in a hot, driven rotor...but a cold rotor seems impossible to dent.

[Krdshrk]

Heh... I'll take pictures if i have the chance.

[JoshCrane1]

oh yeah wanna hear somethin crazy, on my t-bird i installed my rear rotors on the front accidentally, went for a drive and hit my brakes hard and they shattered like glass, scared the living shit outa me, thought i broke my whole suspension the way it sounded.

got outa the car and picked up the pieces shamefully. no damage thank god, just out two rotors. needless to say, the shop didnt refund my $. lol.