Bags

[nontoxic]

lets start a thread about bags and things related to it, cuz i always have a hard time finding info on here about it, i always end up going to scionlife to look for stuff, i would much rather prefer staying on here. So lets put one together.

[nontoxic]

the thing ive been researching the most is the rear brackets, im so confused on what i should get. Im thinking of just making my own out of what i have to work with, i have a bridge kit for an s10 and and front cup brackets, and i know exactly how to make them work:D , but if you guys can sway my opinion on what i should do, i will take it into consideration,:up:

[nontoxic]

i also want to know everyones opinion, on what to use on the front, i was thinking of just getting the easystreet air struts and calling it a day, but everyone seems pretty ify about them, i like the universal air struts too, but im just so confused on what to get, that and i would want to know what i can go lower with

[Stenger]

Randoon (randon?) sp? sells some CNC'd Billet Aluminum ones that claim to make your xa/b sit the lowest. (check clubxb.com for him) Next year (or 2) when I go to bag mine, it will be on his rear brackets but with Slam re6's on the back, and I sware by the easystreet comapny. I ran Easystreets on my Cavalier and they rode great. So Easy streets up front.

FBI has probably the best price kit (www.fbirides.com (http://www.fbirides.com)) but the compressor that it comes with, how do I put this.... SUCKS! Thomas 337's are good if you don't ever plan to daily drive your car. They do however let you upgrade (for additonal cost) when ordering.

Viair 380C's are good compressors to pump 200psi but take a little bit to do, and are not 100% duty. They also sell a twin Viair 380C pack which is a strong set up.

Viair 400c's are 150psi but 100% duty cylce. They pump about 1minute and some odd seconds quicker than a 380 or 350. Twin viair packs are also available in the 400C.

Viair 450c. These is the 2nd to best they offer. They pump 100% Duty cyle to 200PSI. Awesome compressors, and even better when running the dual set up.

Finially there is the Viair 500 (i think, maybe 510). This bad boy pumps 150psi in a incredible amount of low time. But in my opinion, they are way to big, and way to pricey.

best bet is a twin 380C pack, or a twin 400C pack. This just depends on what you want to run tank gallon wise.

3 gallon tanks are become popular on the xB's/xA's because you can get the pancake tank mount them under the rear cargo area. however, I do not like 3 gallon tanks. (again, personal opinion). Its good for someone who doesn't intend to play with the switches, but thats about it. Its compact which is a plus, but just doesn't hold enough air.

5-8 gallon tanks are what I personally perfer.

Valves.... There's a butt load to choice from.

Blitzluft, Parker, SMC, Easystreet/Air lift, ect. ect. They are all about the same, but watch what you buy off ebay. Some may be made a little more cheaply with plastics, and cheap rubber diphram gaskets.

I've personally used Easystreet/air lift valves. And had no problems with them. Responded will, never had a sticky valve, and were very solid.

Also I have used Blitzluft. These are sold by FBI (fbirides.com). Again, very solid valves, but you do not come pre-wired.

SMC is a popular valve with the mini-truck comunity. These are a hot item over at Thorebeck Brothers/Suicidedoors. (www.suicidedoors.com (http://www.suicidedoors.com)) Again, very solid valve.

Parker. Parker claims to be top notch, and they hold to there claim. With a large varity of sizes, and top quality valves, they are worth the price. Our company sells these at work, and they are one of our higher movers for hydrualic/flud and air valve sales.

Sizes range from 1/4 manual, (which are valves built in behind the switch) to now 1" valves. Few things to remember about valves. Size is everything. 1/4" is about the slowest your going to get. 3/8 is a popular choice. and 1/2" is pretty quick. 3/4 and 1" is what you see on duallies and bigger trucks. Also hoppers are going to these sizes.

Special not... a 3/8" fitting will hold 1/2" line. The outter diameter of the hose's are the same, but the inner flows more. so you'll see alot of 3/8" valves, and 1/2" line.

Manifold valves are also avaible from a varity of companys. They provide a clean install, and easy plumbing.

nitrogen tanks can also be ran to lift up your car too. But note, this makes lifting REALLY fast.

Water traps are a key to keeping a clean air ride system. they trap the water compressed by the compressor before entering the tank. Draining them is very simple, just push the nipple/valve on the bottom in, to release the water.

every few months you may want to drain your tank completly by the drain cock on the bottom of the tanks. This will release any un-trapped water built up in the bottom of your tanks. Water in your tank, will go threw your valves which will get your valves dirty, and sticky. Basically you want to do what ever you can to keep the water out of your system.

During winter months, you can buy air line anti freeze. you can usually find this at truck stops like TA/pilot. Just put some in your system, and it will help keep your valves and lines from freezing during the winter months.

I know I am probably forgetting a bunch here but feel free to add in your opinions and what you know.

[Stenger]

holy shit... that was a lot of typing. I get carried away with air ride :)

[nontoxic]

thanks for all the input, that might help someone out there, i already have a full kit, but if i was gonna get another comp. it would be a 480c, i like the "Randode" billet brackets and there easy as hell to mount but im just trying to see what i can do with what i already have, i got the SS RE-6's and Blitzluft 1/2''s, and i have a dual guage panel with switches but im gonna end up getting an A pillar and 7 switch AVS box, those things are badass.
Thanks for the Easystreet input:up:

[Stenger]

Tockico d specs are used by easy street. They have 9 way dampining controls and they just revamped the valving on them for a better ride.

They also have a 1 year warranty and are completly bolt on.

I think the rear your best with randode rears. This way you can go back to springs if you get tired of air or end up having problems.

Why sacrifice the ability to go back to stock if needed? Unless your gonna body drop! The cut that shit up!

[nontoxic]

ya, i dont want to mess it up to the point where i cant just put springs back on it

[_Keith_]

The xb I did used stock purches place the back in and place a round circle disc at the bottom bolted into the bag.

[ROFL Box]

The xb I did used stock purches place the back in and place a round circle disc at the bottom bolted into the bag.

that is what I have on mine...

honestly... a 1/2" valve is a bit large for the xB... I have 3/8" and they are fine...

Right now I have a 2 gallon pancake tank and a Viair 450...

if your looking for a good price on bags or valves... www.suicidedoors.com is awesome.... (im a mini trucker at heart... what can I say)

FYI... stay away from easy street front struts...

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/Superfa1/air%20ride/th_airride032.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/Superfa1/air%20ride/?action=view&current=airride032.flv)
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/Superfa1/air%20ride/airride.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/Superfa1/air%20ride/airride035.jpg

[Stenger]

What's wrong with easy street struts?

I don't no much about about the xb set up, but I never had a problem with my cavalier set up.

I will say this. Stay away from the auto pilot air management. It fucks up in the worst times.

It made my cavalier drag a few times when I didn't want it to. But I do like sparks!

[nontoxic]

hey Don, where did you mount the valves, and i was wondering whats the best and cleanest way to run the air line outside, cuz im gonna have the comp. and tank in tha hatch

[nontoxic]

what rear brackets are those

[ROFL Box]

hey Don, where did you mount the valves, and i was wondering whats the best and cleanest way to run the air line outside, cuz im gonna have the comp. and tank in tha hatch

My valves are mounted in the little compartment to the right of the spare tire..

My tank and compressor are sitting in the Dr side rear floor board till I get the tank I want


what rear brackets are those

those are the FBI rear brackets...

[ROFL Box]

What's wrong with easy street struts?

I don't no much about about the xb set up, but I never had a problem with my cavalier set up.



Well, The easy street struts tend to give you +3 degrees of camber when dropped, so unless you have camber plates are want to ruin your tires trying to drive with neg camber every day when your up... they are for you...

Im going to order the chassis tech front struts to replace my one bent easy street strut...

it fitting on the strut broke and released the air line, causing the bag to deflate while I was driving, and it bent in the process...

[BATComm1]

Hey Don,

Which Chassis Tech struts are you going with ??

[ROFL Box]

I need to get with Ivan (um lunchbox) and see what he has...

with his he took them out of the box and bloted them right to the car...

and he hasnt had a wheel/fender clearance issue... and he is on 20s

[BATComm1]

I've been toying with the idea of bags...I'd like to know what he is running.

[ROFL Box]

yeah... its nice to have bags, dont get me wrong.. but I dunno...

I might get rid of what I have... just do some teins or something

[BATComm1]

I found the only ones that Chassis Tech sells..you have to go to airbagit.com

They are $ 899.00 for the set...ouch !

[Stenger]

Chassis tech is made by AIM. And that company is garbage. Just about any mini trucker will tell you the same.

Eaststreets were great to me. All you have to do to fix the positive camber is to do a little grinding on the strut nuckel. Then add camber bolts. Problem solved. Someone shows how to on the xb at clubxb.com.

I like the fbi setup minus the tank and compessor. Plus its a great price.

[ROFL Box]

I found the only ones that Chassis Tech sells..you have to go to airbagit.com

They are $ 899.00 for the set...ouch !

yeah... I know... I might just find a set of factory struts somewhere and buy some sleeve bags...


Chassis tech is made by AIM. And that company is garbage. Just about any mini trucker will tell you the same.

Eaststreets were great to me. All you have to do to fix the positive camber is to do a little grinding on the strut nuckel. Then add camber bolts. Problem solved. Someone shows how to on the xb at clubxb.com.

I like the fbi setup minus the tank and compessor. Plus its a great price.

I used to be big into the mini trucker scene... but when I bought the xB my blazer just fell to the wayside... ive heard nothing but good about chassis tech's struts... but i have heard bad about their other products...

could you get a link to the how to on club xB please...

[BATComm1]

I was just reading the HOW TO on the camber mod..Randode did it and it sounds and looks like it did well.

[nontoxic]

on the inside or outside of the spare tire?, dont most people put them somewhere on thebumper in the back

[ROFL Box]

if you pull up the covers in the back.... the spare is on your left, and there is a storage compartment on the right...

mine are in the compartment on the right

[Stenger]

I like having the valves directly on the tank. But that only works with 8 port tanks.

Remember the closer the valves are to the bag. The faster it lifts.

I'm doing 8 port 8 gallon tank with 1/2 valves and line. Yes its going to be quick, but that's how I like it. Probably going to do 3/8 valves for dumps though.

Also 2 viair 380s, with eaststreet fronts, randode rear brackets, re6 bags, and probably toxic shocks on the rear to handle low psi driving.

The old lady is going to be pissed about me baggin it, but fuck it. I like to be low and slow, with the ocassional dual row of sparks behind me.

[ROFL Box]

I like having the valves directly on the tank. But that only works with 8 port tanks.

Remember the closer the valves are to the bag. The faster it lifts.

I'm doing 8 port 8 gallon tank with 1/2 valves and line. Yes its going to be quick, but that's how I like it. Probably going to do 3/8 valves for dumps though.

Also 2 viair 380s, with eaststreet fronts, randode rear brackets, re6 bags, and probably toxic shocks on the rear to handle low psi driving.

The old lady is going to be pissed about me baggin it, but fuck it. I like to be low and slow, with the ocassional dual row of sparks behind me.


Yeah, I had 1/2 fills, and it was a bit to quick for me... and it wasnt as fluid...

I like my 3/8 and I like having them mounted about half way between the tank and bag

i need to go get some dragging pics taken... jsut waiting for two of my friends with dimes to come down from st aug.

[nontoxic]

thats what i thought you meant, how did you run the air line to the outside?

[Stenger]

if you mount your valves inside, its a good idea to run the line threw inside of the car. Then drill threw the fire wall and put a garamet around the hose so that it doesn't get cut.

It'll make for a cleaner install, and a safier install. Not that the line is crap or cheap, but it isn't invisable either.

[ROFL Box]

if you mount your valves inside, its a good idea to run the line threw inside of the car. Then drill threw the fire wall and put a garamet around the hose so that it doesn't get cut.

It'll make for a cleaner install, and a safier install. Not that the line is crap or cheap, but it isn't invisable either.

yes... I ran all of my line inside the car...

the only line that goes out is to the bags, which go through the fron floorboards and through the bottom of the rear compartment

[nontoxic]

you think you can show me a pic of where you ran your rear line to the outside?

[ROFL Box]

Dont have any

[Stenger]

Just find drill where the bag is, so you have to run very little line outside.

i don't think I have pictures of my cavalier on how I ran them, but basicly try to drill a hole as close to the bag as possible. Then put in a rubber groumet and run your hose threw it. peice of cake.

Just make sure you have some C clamps that a bolt connects the two together to keep the line from getting anywhere near a hazardous place.

[nontoxic]

thanks

[nontoxic]

does anyone know the best place to get 1/4" NPT to 1/2" airline elbow's other than FBI?,....i cant stand them

[Stenger]

I delt with this guy only for my Cavalier.

His name is Jason, and he'll match prices if you find them lower.

www.aplusperformance.com (http://www.aplusperformance.com)
www.airbagsource.com (http://www.airbagsource.com)

He's an awesome guy, and 90% of his stuff comes from AirLift/easy street.


You can also go to www.suicidedoors.com (http://www.suicidedoors.com) or home depot/Lowes for fittings. I had to do a re-plumb on some old school MIC fittings for him. Got 1/2" plastic push to connect fittings from there, and a few dual female quick disconnects there.

If anyone needs valves I have 8 Blitzluft 1/2" valves (i know, quick valves, but you can put speed reducers on them) I think I also have 50ft of 1/2" air line, and 1 two port 5gallon tank.

[nontoxic]

they dont have them at suicidedoors, thats why i was asking, i only goto suicidedoors now but they dont have them

[Stenger]

is this what your looking for?

http://suicidedoors.com/FittingsMaleBranchTee.php


to make it work, you can but a reducer fitting

[nontoxic]

no i need to find an elbow for the front strut bags, they're 1/4" but i need it to be able to connect to 1/2" line so i dont have to buy different air line to run to the front easystreets im getting

[Stenger]

front strut bags are 1/2" fittings.

[nontoxic]

no they're not

[Stenger]

Check the easystreet web site.

I am almost positive that the fittings to the strut are 1/2 inch. I would check but I'm on my blackberry and at work so can't really do so.

[ROFL Box]

easy street front bags are 1/2 but i ran an adapter for a 3/8 line

[Stenger]

easy street front bags are 1/2 but i ran an adapter for a 3/8 line


thank you! but why did you do that? 3/8" and 1/2" line have the same outter diameter, so the 3/8" line should have fit right in there.

For moderate quickness I think 3/8 valves with 1/2" lines are perfect combo.

[nontoxic]

the website doesnt say that they're 1/2" , i just remembered the last time i saw it say what size they were, they said they were 1/4", i dont know where it was

[Stenger]

they are 1/2"

Thats why the kit comes with the following:

3/8 valves
1/2" line

because the 1/2" line is the same outter diameter as the 3/8" thus for, the fittings are 1/2".

[nontoxic]

alright, that makes it easy then, less to buy

[scionmedic]

I have an xa, and all i need is the simple up and down..... the only company that i found that has a kit is KMW... but it has a kit..... I am planning on putting it all where the spare use to go. For simple up and down and i dont need speed what comp should i use and wll a small tank work. please help I am new to this...?

[Stenger]

just becareful with a 4 valve system.

the T's let air pressure bounce between lines when turning. NOT GOOD!

I would still run a traditional 8valves, then just wire your fronts together, and rears together.

[MuNkY]

I just ordered my front kit, and a tank 2 days ago. I've had the rear kit for a while now, just didnt have enough money to put the rest of the kit together.. soon as they get here i will post some pics!

[nontoxic]

nice

[MuNkY]

I got a question actually..

what is this i keep hearing about on the positive camber in the front? is that on all types of kits or just the air over struts? And what exactly is the problem with the positive camber?

[nontoxic]

tire wear

[nontoxic]

i might be getting my easystreet struts and randode brackets really soon sometime this month:bash:

[Stenger]

Positive camber is when your wheels lean in towards the bottom. Negative (which looks cool) is when the top of the wheel leans in.

It'll ware the inside/out side of your tires fast!

But to correct it, just do the camber bolt mod. Its simple. Just grind a little of the bolt hole out, insert camber bolt.

[MuNkY]

cool thanks. where would I get some of these camber bolts you speak of?

I'm piecing everything together before I install it, just making sure I have everything.

[Stenger]

i've seen them on a few sites, including ebay. so just look around under Scion Suspension

[nontoxic]

www.jscspeed.com (http://www.jscspeed.com), the cusco camber plate kit

[Stenger]

www.jscspeed.com (http://www.jscspeed.com), the cusco camber plate kit

No, not plates, get the botls. That way you can actually get closer to dialing in what degree of camber you need. I think a -3 bolt will work. Plus I am not sure if those plates will work with the Easy Street set ups. They don't use a "factory" mount. They use a solid sheet of metal (about 1/2" thick) with 2 urethane bushings, and 3 bolts to attach it to the strut tower. No bearing inside it. I think you can use a stock mount though. But you'll lose about 1/2" or more of drop.


http://www.nipponpower.com/~nippon/product.phtml?p=1026 (http://www.nipponpower.com/%7Enippon/product.phtml?p=1026)

Something like that.

Camber plates are cool, but they don't let you manually adjust them. With the fronts theres not for sure way to tell if your camber's going to be out of wack the same amount on each side. So you want adjustably. No the rear. Camber away!

[nontoxic]

do you think a camber kit for a civic would work on my B, cuz i bought 1 for my hatchback 3 years ago and never got around to putting it on, it looks like it might work

[Stenger]

couldn't tell ya. Worth a shot I guess.

[MuNkY]

hey guys i got a question.. im taking apart the front struts right now, do i really need a spring compressor to get the mount off? i have the whole strut out of the vehicle completely.

[Stenger]

why are you taking the strut mount off?

Don't the kit come with mounts?

If you are taking the mount off for whatever reason, you do need a compressor. Or else your going to loose a body part, or a wall in your garage. lol

[MuNkY]

yeah my kit didnt come with the strut mounts.. i have to take them off the stock one and mount it to the bags.

[Stenger]

Then all you should have to do is compress the spring, and remove the upper center bolt. The mount is probably going to take some work to get off. Or you can go buy some new ones from autozone or something. This way, if you need to go back to stock for some reason, you can just quickly swap them over. Instead of having to tare down the suspension twice.

You'll find though, that the stock mount is going to be a better ride, than the easy street mount. However, you're going to loose a little in your overall front drop. Being as the mounts from factory are taller than the easy street mount.

[MuNkY]

Interesting.. where can i buy the easystreet mount? directly from them?

[Stenger]

Yeah, you'll have to contact easy street, and tell them you need the strut mount, bushings, and bolts.

[benxb]

i used my stock mounts because the easy street struts make a lot of noise when turning and going over bumps. you don't want more noise from the mounts to add on top. also make sure your struts are good i am having to replace a strut right now. it sticks and does not lower as low as one side. i am about a inche or less from the ground with stock mounts. to get camber just longgate your strut holes. work good to keep from killing tires have had my tire on the rear for almost 1 and a half, front a little over a year. could have done better if i aling. it more. good luck

[Stenger]

i used my stock mounts because the easy street struts make a lot of noise when turning and going over bumps. you don't want more noise from the mounts to add on top. also make sure your struts are good i am having to replace a strut right now. it sticks and does not lower as low as one side. i am about a inche or less from the ground with stock mounts. to get camber just longgate your strut holes. work good to keep from killing tires have had my tire on the rear for almost 1 and a half, front a little over a year. could have done better if i aling. it more. good luck

Its likely that its not sticky, but bent.

I had that problem. To get it to lay out, I had to raise up all the way, drop the passenger side (bent side) drop the driver side, then raise driver side, and the weight would force the passenger side down.

I heard a loud pop one night coming home from my ex's, and couldn't figure out what the fuck it was. The strut got more bent as time went on, and eventually, I was in your shoes. lol

[MuNkY]

Another question for you guys:

Which compressors are you using, with what tanks? And how long does it take for them to fill? i'm doing a pancake tank under the vehicle (4 or 5 gallon, cant remember) and im thinking about going with a dual compressor setup, would this be a good way to go, or should i just do a single compressor setup?

Heres what im thinking, if i go with a single compressor, i would get the air zenith 200psi. It's 100% duty cycle which is nice, but if i went with 2 compressors, wouldnt it fill up faster, therefore i wouldnt need the 100% duty cycle, right?

If i go with a dual compressor setup, i was thinking of going with dual viair 450s. What do you guys think?

[Stenger]

The Viair 450's are 100% duty cycle as well. And the compress to 200psi.

The Viair 400C's are 100% duty cycle, but only compress to 150psi.

Air Zenith is 100% Duty Cycle, and compress to 200psi.

You really only need one compressor for a 4 -5 gallon tank. And fill up time varies per compressor. You can find fill up times in ad's for the company's, and also their sites.

If you do run a Dual Pack upgrade your battery. Optima Yellow top, or something with the same features. Deep Cycle.

I always ran a single Viair 380C. Compresses to 200psi, but not 100% Duty Cycle. However, as long as your tank doesn't drain over night, or you have a massive leak somewhere, you'll compressor(s) will probably never need to run at 100% duty cycle. If I'd drain the crap outta the tank playing with it, my compressor would probably run for about 5 minutes to fully fill to 200psi. Usually after 120 psi, the time really slows down, because the compressor is working harder to get the psi levels up.

I swear by Viair. But there are those who swear by AZ. I'd just stay away from crappy no name company's like Thomas, AIM, or any sold by the hp they make. They are not known to last very long

[nontoxic]

go to clubxb and check out Randode's easy camber fix for the easystreet's

[MuNkY]

Heres the link to that, in case anyone wants it:

http://www.clubxb.com/forums/f26/10190-easy-street-easy-camber-fix/

Also, i have another question (thanks for all the answers before BTW, i really appreciate all the info):

What is the trick to getting the fender spaced just right? when the car is aired completely out, the fender hits right where the bumper meets it.. it looks like if i spaced it, it would need to be spaced like an inch and a half.. i figure thats gonna look dumb? any ideas?

[moonray]

I think I know what your talking about but can you take a pic two to show me? Randode spaced Just1ns out a little where the fender and bumper meet.

[MuNkY]

http://akscionclub.net/Images/white/8.jpg

see how the bumper and the fender hit right there where they meet? will the cusco camber plates fix that?

ugh, i gotta get my fenders re-painted too.. i dropped it on the tire once and it bent the tab and cracked the paint right there too...

[_Keith_]

pic no workie :mrg:

[Stenger]

Have you had it aligned yet?

Align it, and your problem should go away. If not, drop the camber in about -1 to -2 degrees air'd out.

[MuNkY]

i havent had it aligned yet, as i havent actually finished the whole setup.. been working on the front for a couple days now seeing if i can figure it out.. i think the negative camber is going to be the fix.. i might even go with the randode fix.. that seems to have helped with the one he did.

does the pic not work?

[moonray]

Yes the Randode fix did help me a lot. I have the camber set at about -.05 degree right nowbut can go more negative if I want. Heres a link to the little spacer that Randode used on Just1ns fender/bumper. Maybe this is what you might want to do as well.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb279/Just1nA/justin6.jpg

[MuNkY]

Yeah i saw that pic, im definately going to do that. He was talking about some bracket that randode made to hold the bumper in the same position as the spaced out fender.. i pmed him on scionlife to see if i could get a pic of it, but no response in like 3 days.

[Stenger]

It looks like you have too much Tow Out, (meaning your tires are pointing out when should be straight). Alignment will help a lot!

[moonray]

Yeah i saw that pic, im definately going to do that. He was talking about some bracket that randode made to hold the bumper in the same position as the spaced out fender.. i pmed him on scionlife to see if i could get a pic of it, but no response in like 3 days.

He doesn't hang out on SL very often - Try www.ScionApocalypse.com (http://www.ScionApocalypse.com). You'll find him there.

[Stenger]

He doesn't hang out on SL very often - Try www.ScionApocalypse.com (http://www.ScionApocalypse.com). You'll find him there.

or even clubxb.com

[nontoxic]

he does some badass work

[MuNkY]

Okay, so i have the front and the rear installed on the box now. Do any of you have your setup mounted under the car in the back? im trying to figure out where im going to relocate the evap canister to. Doesnt look like i can move it very far.. and i have to mount my tank and the compressor under there due to my stereo in the back of the car.. any suggestions or pics?

edit: pics of the f + r installed:

http://www.akscionclub.net/Images/white/10.jpg

http://www.akscionclub.net/Images/white/12.jpg

[nontoxic]

looks badass man

[Stenger]

What size tank your running?

traditional 5 gal, slim long 5 gallon, pancake 2-3-4 gallon?

Your compressor you can mount anywhere by buying a longer leader hose. I've seen them for sale on some site, but not sure which one.

[MuNkY]

Ah, that would have been good info eh? LOL i have the pancake 4 gallon tank.

[Stenger]

there should be enough room to mount it on the other side of the evap can. and then the compressor behind the evap can.

i can't really remember where, but somewhere on club xb there is a post of some set ups.

[benxb]

you can also locate the pancake tank under the pass. or driver front seat. paint it silver or chrome like and neons glow look good. show this on another xb been thinking of doing it too.

[MuNkY]

you can also locate the pancake tank under the pass. or driver front seat. paint it silver or chrome like and neons glow look good. show this on another xb been thinking of doing it too.


Yeah i was thinking about that too.. hm..

oh , and club xb = hax'd lol