TunerTrifecta
11-13-2007, 12:19 PM
THIS VOLUME NOT YET FINISHED...HAD TO POST IT TO SAVE IT SO I CAN RUN OUT FOR A MINUTE.
Alrighty folks, since I do this for a living, and I realize it's not everyone's forte, I figure I'll start a series of DIY Write-Ups for installing mobile electronics equipment!
Be sure to completely read the directions at least one time BEFORE starting the installation. This way you've got a good idea of what's coming up next. Also, be sure to check the notes at the bottom. If an instruction has a note it will be noted with one or more asterisks (*).
In this issue, we'll go over how to install speakers, both front and rear.
Things you'll need
Front and Rear:
Drill, fully charged, plenty of torque
5/16" drill bit
Self tapping metal screws, no longer than 3/4" (about 20)
Jigsaw
about 4 square feet of 1/2" MDF (medium density fiberboard)
cheap can of flat black spray paint (not a necessity)
1/2" wood screws (about 30-40 depending on speaker/s)
Wire t-taps or metra speaker harnesses (P/n: 72-8104) (8)
If using t-taps, spade connectors for t-taps
If installing component set in front, about 4 ft of speaker wire
Hot glue gun and glue-black
On with the install!
We're going to pretend the door panel is already off by now...
Front speakers
Using your drill and 5/16" drill bit, drill out the rivets that hold the factory speaker into the door, 3 on each speaker. It's easiest to just take out the front 2 for now.
Bring the factory speaker to the MDF sheet and lay it face down. Trace the outer edge, marking your old rivet holes.
Now, cut out the shape you just drew, should be like a rounded triangle. DO NOT drill out the rivel holes you had drawn. Go about a 1/4" to the side of each rivet hole and drill a hole there. This way your new speaker plate is mounting in a fresh hole, not one that's already drilled out.
Get the measurement for the mounting hole diameter for the NEW speaker. Draw and cut this hole centered on your new speaker plate. If you're installing anything OTHER than a component set, skip to step
Remove the 10mm bolt holding your tweeter in and unplug it. Remove the tweeter from the factory bracket.
Bend the tabs flat on the factory tweeter bracket.Take your new tweeter and hot glue it to the factory bracket.
Find a place to mount the crossover, where it will not obstruct the window or anything else.
Run the wires from your crossover to the hole where the midrange speaker will go. Next, run the wires to where the tweeter will go. Behind the plastic sheet on the door is a good place to go with these.
Alrighty folks, since I do this for a living, and I realize it's not everyone's forte, I figure I'll start a series of DIY Write-Ups for installing mobile electronics equipment!
Be sure to completely read the directions at least one time BEFORE starting the installation. This way you've got a good idea of what's coming up next. Also, be sure to check the notes at the bottom. If an instruction has a note it will be noted with one or more asterisks (*).
In this issue, we'll go over how to install speakers, both front and rear.
Things you'll need
Front and Rear:
Drill, fully charged, plenty of torque
5/16" drill bit
Self tapping metal screws, no longer than 3/4" (about 20)
Jigsaw
about 4 square feet of 1/2" MDF (medium density fiberboard)
cheap can of flat black spray paint (not a necessity)
1/2" wood screws (about 30-40 depending on speaker/s)
Wire t-taps or metra speaker harnesses (P/n: 72-8104) (8)
If using t-taps, spade connectors for t-taps
If installing component set in front, about 4 ft of speaker wire
Hot glue gun and glue-black
On with the install!
We're going to pretend the door panel is already off by now...
Front speakers
Using your drill and 5/16" drill bit, drill out the rivets that hold the factory speaker into the door, 3 on each speaker. It's easiest to just take out the front 2 for now.
Bring the factory speaker to the MDF sheet and lay it face down. Trace the outer edge, marking your old rivet holes.
Now, cut out the shape you just drew, should be like a rounded triangle. DO NOT drill out the rivel holes you had drawn. Go about a 1/4" to the side of each rivet hole and drill a hole there. This way your new speaker plate is mounting in a fresh hole, not one that's already drilled out.
Get the measurement for the mounting hole diameter for the NEW speaker. Draw and cut this hole centered on your new speaker plate. If you're installing anything OTHER than a component set, skip to step
Remove the 10mm bolt holding your tweeter in and unplug it. Remove the tweeter from the factory bracket.
Bend the tabs flat on the factory tweeter bracket.Take your new tweeter and hot glue it to the factory bracket.
Find a place to mount the crossover, where it will not obstruct the window or anything else.
Run the wires from your crossover to the hole where the midrange speaker will go. Next, run the wires to where the tweeter will go. Behind the plastic sheet on the door is a good place to go with these.