TunerTrifecta
11-12-2007, 08:44 PM
Alrighty folks, since I do this for a living, and I realize it's not everyone's forte, I figure I'll start a series of DIY Write-Ups for installing mobile electronics equipment!
Be sure to completely read the directions at least one time BEFORE starting the installation. This way you've got a good idea of what's coming up next. Also, be sure to check the notes at the bottom. If an instruction has a note it will be noted with one or more asterisks (*).
In this issue, we'll go over how to install both a 4 channel amplifier and either a 2-channel or 1-channel(monoblock) amplifier. Keep in mind, if you're installing either type of amplifier to your stock headunit, you'll need to buy the appropriate Line-Out Converter (LOC)
Things you'll need:
4-channel:
Note: All of these things except the RCA's are found in a power "kit". Do NOT buy the cheap wal-mart kits, do NOT buy Raptor kits, and do NOT buy scosche kits, they use aluminum wire and are no where near the AWG they say they are.
8awg power wire (roughly 20ft)
8awg ground wire (roughly 5ft)
4-channel RCA's* (5m will work, 6m is better--don't skimp on these)
Speaker Wire-at least 16awg (roughly 150ft to do it right--all 4 speakers, 80ft for front 2 only)
Single blue wire (roughly 20ft)
Ring terminal same size as power wire x1
Ring terminal same size as ground wire x1
2-channel/monoblock:
Note: All of these things except the RCA's are found in a power "kit". Do NOT buy the cheap wal-mart kits, do NOT buy Raptor kits, and do NOT buy scosche kits, they use aluminum wire and are no where near the AWG they say they are.
4awg or 8awg power wire (roughly 20ft)**
4awg or 8awg ground wire (roughly 5ft)**
2-channel RCA's (5m will work, 6m is better--don't skimp on these)
Speaker Wire-at least 14awg (roughly 5ft, I used 10awg)
Single blue wire, any awg (roughly 20ft)
Ring terminal same size as power wire x1
Ring terminal same size as ground wire x1
Both:
0awg or 4awg power wire (roughly 20ft)
0awg or 4awg ground wire (roughly 5 ft)
4-channel RCA's (5m will work, 6m is better--don't skimp on these)
2-channel RCA's (5m will work, 6m is better--don't skimp on these)
Speaker Wire-at least 14awg (roughly 5ft, I used 10awg)
Speaker Wire-at least 16awg (roughly 150ft to do all 4 speakers, 80 to do front 2 only)
Single blue wire, any awg (roughly 20ft)
At least 1 distrobution block for power (I used 1 for ground also, NOT fused for the ground, fused for power)
Ring terminal same size as power wire x1
Ring terminal same size as ground wire x1 with distro block, x2 without___________________________________________ __________________________________
Now that that part is out of the way, let's go over some...
Basics:
Your ground wire should be as short as possible, no longer than 3 ft
Your ground MUST be grounded to something metal on the body. Sand/grind off all paint/rust/undercoat before attaching
Your fuse on the power wire should be as close to the battery as possible, no further than 3ft from the battery
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT run your power wire through the door jambs. There are several grommets in the firewall to go through. If you can't find one, CAREFULLY drill a hole in the firewall using a step-bit, then put a rubber grommet or something similair in the hole to protect the wire from the sharp edges.
Power wire(s) and signal cables (RCA's) SHOULD be run down opposite sides of the car. I would say MUST, but you aren't going to damage anything by doing it wrong, it will just sound bad.
Run your speaker wires on the same side of the car as the signal cables.
Anything wrapped in yellow wire-loom, DON'T MESS WITH IT. This one is very important. Yellow loom=airbag wires.
Always remember this: It's easier to cut excess wire off than to add wire where you cut too short. LEAVE YOURSELF EXTRA WIRE!_____________________________________________ _______________________________
Let's get started! You can do this 1 of 2 ways.
Pull out everything in the trunk (carpet, foam stuff, etc...), the bottom of the rear seat, the kick panels, and the sill-plates
Fight with tucking wires instead.
You choose. Ok really now, let's get started.
__________________________________________________ ________________________________________________
Power and Ground wires
Disconnect your negative battery terminal and let the car sit for about 10 minutes before you do ANYTHING-this is for your own safety.
Figure out where you want to mount the amp(s)
Find a place to run the power wire through the firewall
Connect remote turn on/accessory wire and tape it to the side of the power wire, this makes it easy to knock out 2 birds with 1 stone. On an aftermarket headunit the remote turn on wire is clearly labeled, on the factory the wire color is gray, in the harness connected to your radio.
Get your power wire tucked away all the way back to the amplifier (not connected to anything, yet)
Figure out where you'll be mounting the fuse for the power wire
Remove fuse from fuse block
Attach power wire to battery post using ring terminal
Cut power wire where you'll be attaching the fuse, remember, no more than 3ft away.
Attach power wire to fuse block on both sides, remembering to keep the fuse out until the end. If only using 1 amplifier, skip to step 11
Attach power wire to distrobution block.
Attach power expansions to distrobution block
Attach power wire to amplifier (Will say 12v+, +, 12v, etc...)
Find a sufficient place to make a ground. Remember to sand off paint, rust, undercoat or anything else hiding bare metal.
Attach ground wire to body/frame using ring terminal
Attach ground wire to amplifier(s) (will say 12v-, -, ground, etc...)
Attach remote turn on wire to amplifier (will say "remote")Voila! Power, ground, and remote turn on is done!
Be sure to completely read the directions at least one time BEFORE starting the installation. This way you've got a good idea of what's coming up next. Also, be sure to check the notes at the bottom. If an instruction has a note it will be noted with one or more asterisks (*).
In this issue, we'll go over how to install both a 4 channel amplifier and either a 2-channel or 1-channel(monoblock) amplifier. Keep in mind, if you're installing either type of amplifier to your stock headunit, you'll need to buy the appropriate Line-Out Converter (LOC)
Things you'll need:
4-channel:
Note: All of these things except the RCA's are found in a power "kit". Do NOT buy the cheap wal-mart kits, do NOT buy Raptor kits, and do NOT buy scosche kits, they use aluminum wire and are no where near the AWG they say they are.
8awg power wire (roughly 20ft)
8awg ground wire (roughly 5ft)
4-channel RCA's* (5m will work, 6m is better--don't skimp on these)
Speaker Wire-at least 16awg (roughly 150ft to do it right--all 4 speakers, 80ft for front 2 only)
Single blue wire (roughly 20ft)
Ring terminal same size as power wire x1
Ring terminal same size as ground wire x1
2-channel/monoblock:
Note: All of these things except the RCA's are found in a power "kit". Do NOT buy the cheap wal-mart kits, do NOT buy Raptor kits, and do NOT buy scosche kits, they use aluminum wire and are no where near the AWG they say they are.
4awg or 8awg power wire (roughly 20ft)**
4awg or 8awg ground wire (roughly 5ft)**
2-channel RCA's (5m will work, 6m is better--don't skimp on these)
Speaker Wire-at least 14awg (roughly 5ft, I used 10awg)
Single blue wire, any awg (roughly 20ft)
Ring terminal same size as power wire x1
Ring terminal same size as ground wire x1
Both:
0awg or 4awg power wire (roughly 20ft)
0awg or 4awg ground wire (roughly 5 ft)
4-channel RCA's (5m will work, 6m is better--don't skimp on these)
2-channel RCA's (5m will work, 6m is better--don't skimp on these)
Speaker Wire-at least 14awg (roughly 5ft, I used 10awg)
Speaker Wire-at least 16awg (roughly 150ft to do all 4 speakers, 80 to do front 2 only)
Single blue wire, any awg (roughly 20ft)
At least 1 distrobution block for power (I used 1 for ground also, NOT fused for the ground, fused for power)
Ring terminal same size as power wire x1
Ring terminal same size as ground wire x1 with distro block, x2 without___________________________________________ __________________________________
Now that that part is out of the way, let's go over some...
Basics:
Your ground wire should be as short as possible, no longer than 3 ft
Your ground MUST be grounded to something metal on the body. Sand/grind off all paint/rust/undercoat before attaching
Your fuse on the power wire should be as close to the battery as possible, no further than 3ft from the battery
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT run your power wire through the door jambs. There are several grommets in the firewall to go through. If you can't find one, CAREFULLY drill a hole in the firewall using a step-bit, then put a rubber grommet or something similair in the hole to protect the wire from the sharp edges.
Power wire(s) and signal cables (RCA's) SHOULD be run down opposite sides of the car. I would say MUST, but you aren't going to damage anything by doing it wrong, it will just sound bad.
Run your speaker wires on the same side of the car as the signal cables.
Anything wrapped in yellow wire-loom, DON'T MESS WITH IT. This one is very important. Yellow loom=airbag wires.
Always remember this: It's easier to cut excess wire off than to add wire where you cut too short. LEAVE YOURSELF EXTRA WIRE!_____________________________________________ _______________________________
Let's get started! You can do this 1 of 2 ways.
Pull out everything in the trunk (carpet, foam stuff, etc...), the bottom of the rear seat, the kick panels, and the sill-plates
Fight with tucking wires instead.
You choose. Ok really now, let's get started.
__________________________________________________ ________________________________________________
Power and Ground wires
Disconnect your negative battery terminal and let the car sit for about 10 minutes before you do ANYTHING-this is for your own safety.
Figure out where you want to mount the amp(s)
Find a place to run the power wire through the firewall
Connect remote turn on/accessory wire and tape it to the side of the power wire, this makes it easy to knock out 2 birds with 1 stone. On an aftermarket headunit the remote turn on wire is clearly labeled, on the factory the wire color is gray, in the harness connected to your radio.
Get your power wire tucked away all the way back to the amplifier (not connected to anything, yet)
Figure out where you'll be mounting the fuse for the power wire
Remove fuse from fuse block
Attach power wire to battery post using ring terminal
Cut power wire where you'll be attaching the fuse, remember, no more than 3ft away.
Attach power wire to fuse block on both sides, remembering to keep the fuse out until the end. If only using 1 amplifier, skip to step 11
Attach power wire to distrobution block.
Attach power expansions to distrobution block
Attach power wire to amplifier (Will say 12v+, +, 12v, etc...)
Find a sufficient place to make a ground. Remember to sand off paint, rust, undercoat or anything else hiding bare metal.
Attach ground wire to body/frame using ring terminal
Attach ground wire to amplifier(s) (will say 12v-, -, ground, etc...)
Attach remote turn on wire to amplifier (will say "remote")Voila! Power, ground, and remote turn on is done!