What else do you need wiht a turbo?

[fightinsk8ers]

Ok im definitely looking into the turbotoyotas kit and the dezod kit and i know that you need emanage, gauges, gaugepod, tune, and you should run premium gas but what else do you need? am i missing anything? thanks

craig

[Krdshrk]

New Clutch. Lightweight flywheel will help too.

Gauges & pod - you should use Oil Pressure, Boost/Vac, and get a Wideband A/F Sensor & gauge (like the AEM UEGO).

If the turbo kit doesn't come with a BOV, get one.

Fuel Management (Greddy Emanage or AEM F-IC), and possibly a plug & play wire harness (it makes things SO much easier). You may need a MAP sensor too (to tune under boost pressure). Good tuning is key.

I would switch to synthetic oil - since it doesn't break down. If you forget to let your car cool off and let it flush the hot oil out of the turbo, it won't coke.

Might want to get a manual boost controller to raise or lower the boost.

[2dot4]

I wouldn't buy a new clutch until you need one - the stock clutch works perfectly fine, and the expense involved...$250 for a clutch and $400 or a weekend of personal labor...for something that isn't necessary right away seems too high. Dont forget, if you buy a clutch and you go by the manufacturers suggested application for a boosted car, you'll end up with a stage 4 clutch and lose 100% of your cars driveability - stick with stage 2 if you get one - you definitely don't need anything more powerful until you get into the 300hp range.

Get the car tuned asap - a plug and play harness is $300 - if you got the cash, buy it - but there's only between 6 and 12 (depending on the tuning hardware and if you're running an injector harness) wires to connect so it kinda seems like an expense to hold off on IMO.

Learn how everything is installed so when something goes wrong, you know how to fix it at home. I installed my kit myself, so when small things go wrong (like my boost gauge or my charge pipe disconnecting, or my manifold bolt shooting out of my car), I know how to fix it right away.

[Krazylowgsx]

your manifold bolt flew off? htf did that happen?

[Krdshrk]

I would recommend the PnP harness. That saved my butt a couple times. My emanage went bad, and if it was soldered in, I'd be screwed - i wouldn't be able to drive home on the stock ecu.

[2dot4]

your manifold bolt flew off? htf did that happen?

Not a clue

I was getting on it pretty hard driving home from work, and I heard something fly out from under my car, but didn't think anything of it. When I got where I was going and got ready to leave again, I noticed my car had a terrible exhaust leak and sounded awful. When I got it home to check it out, it was one of the 4 bolts holding my turbo to my manifold - it managed to unscrew itself and leave my car lol.

The thing that sucked was that I thought it had sheared off, so I pulled the entire turbo assembly off and found out that it just unscrewed itself...and the remaining 3 bolts were finger-tight. I almost lost my turbo lol. Oh, and in the process, I broke the brass fitting for my oil feed, and had to find a hardware store that sold one, that was open on a sunday (THANK YOU NAPA!). That and I had to replace the hose clamp on my oil drain line since I'm using a silicone hose. One thing turned into 3 that day...but the car runs like a CHAMP now.

I made sure to torque the bolts back to spec and now I'm keeping an eye on them. I think the problem was that everything was new and I guess the metal expanding and relaxing caused the problem...everything works now though lol. I'm just glad it was an easy fix.

[jwaj2002]

did you add threadlocker? I've got some high heat stuff I got when I was in a machining course in college

[TunerTrifecta]

More fuel is always a bonus, along with an intercooler. Oh, and if you don't already have them, please don't forget the breather mods.

Take it from me and 2dot4, we know..."a guy" with a turbo kit that was nothing more than that: A turbo, a BOV, a manifold, and a downpipe...to factory exhaust. No intercooler, no fuel.

Fuel and a cooler charge aren't NECESSARY, but they are pretty much a no-brainer mod, as they're fairly easy, decently inexpensive, and WELL worth the time it takes as far as performance gains.

[_Keith_]

To much fuel is not a good thing.........

[TunerTrifecta]

True indeed, but I'd rather have too much fuel than too much air.

Too much fuel leads to your tune being off, car runs rich, you lose gas milage.

Too much air leads to detonation which leads to blown head gaskets which leads to rodknocks which leads to rebuild shortblocks.

I think I'd choose the former. Besides, you can always turn the duty cycle DOWN on injectors if you're gettin too much fuel. If you aren't getting enough, and you turn the duty cycle up too high, you distort the spray pattern which CAN lead to a misfire.

[_Keith_]

True indeed, but I'd rather have too much fuel than too much air.

Too much fuel leads to your tune being off, car runs rich, you lose gas milage.

Too much air leads to detonation which leads to blown head gaskets which leads to rodknocks which leads to rebuild shortblocks.

I think I'd choose the former. Besides, you can always turn the duty cycle DOWN on injectors if you're gettin too much fuel. If you aren't getting enough, and you turn the duty cycle up too high, you distort the spray pattern which CAN lead to a misfire.

To much fuel also leads to bad rings faster!

[TunerTrifecta]

I'd much rather replace rings than have to pull the block and head to have them both milled flat and buy ARP studs and a MHG...

Not trying to argue with you keith, we're just stating our opinions. Don't want this to turn into a flame war because we disagree lol

[2dot4]

neither too rich or too lean is good - both have bad side effects. too lean is much more dangerous, because detonation can break some extremely fast moving parts at very high rpms and cause serious damage. Running rich kills gas mileage, fouls spark plugs, wears out rings, and clogs O2 sensors, but it's nothing that will destroy your car.

The point of the "discussion" is - get your car properly tuned, because it's unhealthy to run without.

[TunerTrifecta]

neither too rich or too lean is good - both have bad side effects. too lean is much more dangerous, because detonation can break some extremely fast moving parts at very high rpms and cause serious damage. Running rich kills gas mileage, fouls spark plugs, wears out rings, and clogs O2 sensors, but it's nothing that will destroy your car.

The point of the "discussion" is - get your car properly tuned, because it's unhealthy to run without.

QFT--quoted for truth

[_Keith_]

I'd much rather replace rings than have to pull the block and head to have them both milled flat and buy ARP studs and a MHG...

Not trying to argue with you keith, we're just stating our opinions. Don't want this to turn into a flame war because we disagree lol

But neither of you said what the bad was to running to rich.... PEOPLE NEED TO KNOW THESE THINGS!

Dont tell somone run extra fuel... For all we know he may do it because he didnt know it can ruin a motor too...

[Mr_Meaty]

You all are talking about fuel, and no one said that he will also need larger injectors :lol:
550cc should be good for what the stock block will hold, up to 350hp.
And the flywheel is not neccessary at all. I'm only pushing 252hp, and my clutch is OK unless i really get on it off the line, then it slips.

You don't need the pressure sensor with teh AEM F/IC or the greddy ultimate casue they are included, and you don't NEED it for the greddy blue, but it lets you tune off boost which will fix your AFR at partial throttle. Or you could get the dezod black box which tunes partial thorttle.

Full catback exhaust would help as well, but not neccessary at first. I would also suggest poly motor mounts, like the speed source ones, cause our engine rocks something awfull and cause major wheel hop. And to keep that power to the grounds, some stickier tires sooner or later.

[TunerTrifecta]

You all are talking about fuel, and no one said that he will also need larger injectors :lol:
550cc should be good for what the stock block will hold, up to 350hp.
And the flywheel is not neccessary at all. I'm only pushing 252hp, and my clutch is OK unless i really get on it off the line, then it slips.
Um...how does fuel get into the combustion chamber?...:blink: I would've assumed that if he's going turbo, that he would know that when we say he needs more fuel, we're talking about bigger injectors as well as a HF pump, such as a walbro 255lph.


Full catback exhaust would help as well, but not neccessary at first. I would also suggest poly motor mounts, like the speed source ones, cause our engine rocks something awfull and cause major wheel hop. And to keep that power to the grounds, some stickier tires sooner or later.

I would say exhaust is a MUST have for a forced induction car. If you create too much backpressure on the hot side of a turbo, you'll cause turbo surge and end up blowing the seals in. Ask me how I know :doh:

[Mr_Meaty]

if he knew what he needed, he would not have started this thread, and he would have included injectors in his list of "I already know I need..."

And if he's running low boost, he won't need an exhaust yet. What psi and how much whp were you running when you blew your seals?

[2dot4]

to properly run boost on a car under 7psi, you need a turbo, charge pipe, manifold, downpipe and intake.

You don't NEED injectors, or a BOV, or an intercooler, or exhaust or even a tune right away.

Once you get the basics, this is the order I'd get the rest in...
TUNE
BOV
exhaust
intercooler
injectors

Buy an intercooler BEFORE you start ramping up the boost. The stock injectors are fine up to 7psi - you don't need to replace them until you up the boost. No matter how much boost you're running, the first thing to buy is a tune - 100%. Make sure the basics are running correctly, then start bolting shit on.

Stock exhaust works fine under 7psi - you're holding back about 25whp, but it's not going to break anything with that little boost.

BOV is a great safety mod, and it sounds badass. plus it's cheap. IMO you can't have a turbo without a BOV.

You can slap an oil catch can on there too eventually, but it's not a "necessary mod" - if you got $100 and a couple hours, go ahead.

Side note** If you add nitrous to a turbo on a stock motor, you are RETARDED. Sorry, but that's absolutely ridiculous, and you're going to break shit the first time you hit 6k rpms. Pick one or the other - and I don't know why you'd add nitrous to 7psi or less anyway - it's cheaper, easier, and you get more SAFE power when you up the boost and retune.... (sorry, going off on a tangent)

[DriverLost]

:hiding::hide: Great thread. :flex:

[Mr_Meaty]

If he gets one of the kits he mentioned, BOV and Intercoller and included.
And if I'm not mistaken, isn't the charge pipe what connects to the intercooler? Where would your charge pipe go if not connected to the intercooler? directly into your throttle body?

Here in Vegas, you are asking for trouble running without an intercooler.

Also, how would he get a tune if he does not have some sort of engine management to tune? Where is that on the list?

Finally, my turbo kit at 7psi put out close to 300hp. You think that's OK with teh stock injectors? I dont' think so. You can't just pick arbitrary PSI levels cause some kit's put out 200hp at 7 and some kits put out 300hp at 7psi.

If your gonna do it, do it right the first time. Save your money and get everything you need up front.

I'm not hateing...just don't want this guy blowing his turbo sayind "They said I didn't need a BOV!" or blowing his motor saying "They siad I could run 7psi with stock injectors!"

Hell, my kit was on a 3.5psi spring with stock injectors and it was running lean as hell!

But props to the custom setup. I'm jealouse. Any pics? Dyno numbers? Track times?

[fightinsk8ers]

alright everyone thanks for all the good info and i wasnt planning on running with out a tune or i/c or injectors like meaty said im gonna do it right the first time.....this is why i asked you guys all these questions and thanks for your great feedback! yeah i just forgot to mention injectors with what i need becuase it would come wiht the kit ya know....so heres another question how much cheaper is it to build your own custom turbo??? becuase there is no way in hell that i can save up like 6 grand!!!!! in a short time its gonnnatake me like 2 fucking years for that shit and im only saying 6 grand because i would want more money "just in case" i think im gonna do the dumb thing and buy it wiht my credit card haha well idk lemme know what you think tahnks

[Mr_Meaty]

Hieu (hieuman on here) has finished the purchasing of his custom. It's alot more work, but he saved about $2K. You could save more if you get a good deal from a local shop to custom fab some pipeing and stuff. But there is alot more work and thought that goes into a custom kit, so if your a noob, get someone who knows turbos to help. Someone you can sit down with and look at your engine bay and map stuff out, not just sending PMs back and forth!
By the way, my kit came to about $4Gs for parts and about $6Gs after install and tuning. I could have shaved about a grand off by choosing cheaper management, gauges, and installing myself, so your pretty spot on with the money.

[2dot4]

If he gets one of the kits he mentioned, BOV and Intercoller and included.
And if I'm not mistaken, isn't the charge pipe what connects to the intercooler? Where would your charge pipe go if not connected to the intercooler? directly into your throttle body?

Here in Vegas, you are asking for trouble running without an intercooler.

Also, how would he get a tune if he does not have some sort of engine management to tune? Where is that on the list?

Finally, my turbo kit at 7psi put out close to 300hp. You think that's OK with teh stock injectors? I dont' think so. You can't just pick arbitrary PSI levels cause some kit's put out 200hp at 7 and some kits put out 300hp at 7psi.

If your gonna do it, do it right the first time. Save your money and get everything you need up front.

I'm not hateing...just don't want this guy blowing his turbo sayind "They said I didn't need a BOV!" or blowing his motor saying "They siad I could run 7psi with stock injectors!"

Hell, my kit was on a 3.5psi spring with stock injectors and it was running lean as hell!

But props to the custom setup. I'm jealouse. Any pics? Dyno numbers? Track times?

I was coming from a custom standpoint - if he builds a custom kit. If he buys an in-the-box kit, then it comes with what he needs, therefore this thread is useless.

Running an intercooler with low boost doesn't have a huge level of benefit - you increase lag on a turbo that's already not producing huge boost - so from a custom standpoint, it can wait. It's not absolutely necessary, especially if you're on a budget. And yes, the charge pipe comes off the turbo straight to the intake manifold when you don't have an intercooler.

If you're buying a dezod kit, it comes with what you need. You don't need to add much to it at all. If you're going custom, I'm assuming you're on a budget, so I'm trying to let you know what's priority for a safe setup. Pretty much all I can say that you HAVE to do with a custom kit is get it tuned (which means buy a fuel management system). Take it somewhere and they'll tune it (wideband tune is usually $100/hour, and dyno tune can run about $150-$200/hour - expect 1:30-2 hours for a good tune).

I don't have any numbers on my setup yet - I'm waiting to tune my beast. However, I am extremely interested to see how a turbo kit is running numbers like 252whp on 5psi...I'd love to see a dyno chart. I was looking at your car domain and you have a 3" intake and full exhaust, but 8psi producing 320whp on a tc is ridiculous unless you're running lean on purpose during the dyno pull...Compare that to nick's GReddy turbo kit - same basic kit - you just have 650cc injectors, and he has 440cc. His 8psi gives his auto 221whp...so what has turbo toyota done differently? Your turbo is a little bigger, but mines bigger than yours and I'm pretty sure I'm not putting down 300whp on my 7.3psi....granted I have no tune, but I'm somewhere in the 230-240whp range right now (by my own assumptions). If a tune gives me another 60whp, I'll be shocked. Now I'm anxious to see. lol

Post up your dyno sheet - I wanna see that badboy.

[Mr_Meaty]

I agree with you 100% But you know you will EVENTUALLY get an IC and BOV, right? It's the right way to do it.
The difference in the TT kit is the equal lenght manifold. It makes a BIG difference. I'm also tuning with the AEM F/IC and it's provem pretty promising, even though it did take my tuner a good 3 days to dial it in.
He didn't print me out the 320 cause there was a bad dip at 4000rpm cause he's a honda guy and couldn't figure out vvt-i. Hopefully the new tuner will do better and I'll be able to keep it at 320.

Oh, and I have a 3" intake, 2.5 downpipe and spipe, but I still have the stock midpipe going to my injen axle back. I'm planning on getting a 2.5 cat back from turbo mafia, but I need a retune, clutch and maybe tires first! :lol:
Anyway, here ya go:

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l88/PJLikins/PJs%20tC/Dyno252small.jpg

[Krdshrk]

I don't even run 8PSI. I run 6.5 PSI.

[BrytC06]

Not a clue

I was getting on it pretty hard driving home from work, and I heard something fly out from under my car, but didn't think anything of it. When I got where I was going and got ready to leave again, I noticed my car had a terrible exhaust leak and sounded awful. When I got it home to check it out, it was one of the 4 bolts holding my turbo to my manifold - it managed to unscrew itself and leave my car lol.

The thing that sucked was that I thought it had sheared off, so I pulled the entire turbo assembly off and found out that it just unscrewed itself...and the remaining 3 bolts were finger-tight. I almost lost my turbo lol. Oh, and in the process, I broke the brass fitting for my oil feed, and had to find a hardware store that sold one, that was open on a sunday (THANK YOU NAPA!). That and I had to replace the hose clamp on my oil drain line since I'm using a silicone hose. One thing turned into 3 that day...but the car runs like a CHAMP now.

I made sure to torque the bolts back to spec and now I'm keeping an eye on them. I think the problem was that everything was new and I guess the metal expanding and relaxing caused the problem...everything works now though lol. I'm just glad it was an easy fix.
Yeah Stainless ( assuming u have a staniless manifold) has some unique properties when it gets hot..... IM sure it was the expanding and relaxing going on that took the bolt off..... If you ever notice there is always a larger bolt hole than the bolt itself.... Its because they take into account this expanding and relaxing is gonna happen....

[fightinsk8ers]

ok so heres another question....my mind is set on the dezod kit only for the fact that it is a bit cheaper in price and comes wiht the greddy emanage, plug n play and also a transmission cooler since i have an automatic tc...the dezod kit currently supports 227 hp at 5 psi but i can get a dif wg spring and bump up the psi right for more power? The turbo toyotas kit is super nice and i love the mani but its to pricey and doesnt come with emanage.

[Mr_Meaty]

The TT kit also needs different charge pipes for the auto, which todd does not have yet (I asked him for ya ;) ) and he said the auto tranny is good for about 270hp before it starts to have issues. Anything above the stage 1 TT kit would be overkill.
But yeah, you can get a 7psi spring, or you can stick with the 5psi and get a manual or electronic boost controller.

[fightinsk8ers]

thanks for asking for me!! i appreciate it...if im correct a manual boost controller is under the hood and you can manually change the amount of psi? and the electronic one you can do from inside your car right? how would that work with the 7 psi spring?? could you like give me an example so i could understand it.

[Mr_Meaty]

you are correct. manual, you need to pop the hood, electronic, you can do on the fly from within the car. But whatever you spring is set at is the lowest you could go. You can not go to 5psi if you have a 7psi springs
I actually have a 3.5psi spring and have my lowest setting on my electronic boost controller set to 5psi. When I get retuned, I will have my low setting on 5 and my high setting on 8. Mine only has 2 settings. Some have 3.
a manual boost controller is just a knob and a valve, so you twist it to set at whatever psi, but you ahve to be very carefull with those to not set it to high. but they are muchh cheaper. hope that helps.

[fightinsk8ers]

yeah thanks for that so lets say i was about to race someone and i have the electronic controller......its set at lets say 5 for normal driving but i jacked it up to like 8 or so then everything should be all good right?

[Mr_Meaty]

yuppers! just hit a button!
this, of course, is taking into account that you have a good tune and have tested at both PSI levels.

[TunerTrifecta]

I was running 15psi @ 350whp...













it was a 90 Supra though, not a turbo tC lol.

Anywho, good luck on your setup sk8ers!

[fightinsk8ers]

thanksss if i have more questions ill be sure to askkkkkkk

[Krdshrk]

yeah thanks for that so lets say i was about to race someone and i have the electronic controller......its set at lets say 5 for normal driving but i jacked it up to like 8 or so then everything should be all good right?


yuppers! just hit a button!
this, of course, is taking into account that you have a good tune and have tested at both PSI levels.

If you want to do something like that, you can't just get a push-button electronic boost controller that just upps the boost. You'll need to get something like the GReddy Profec-B or Apexi AVC-R boost controllers, and 2 tuning maps and have a laptop you can switch the maps with.

[fightinsk8ers]

:up:oh see thats a lil more complicated lol....well im gettin a laptop for xmas haha

[Mr_Meaty]

If you want to do something like that, you can't just get a push-button electronic boost controller that just upps the boost. You'll need to get something like the GReddy Profec-B or Apexi AVC-R boost controllers, and 2 tuning maps and have a laptop you can switch the maps with.
Really? I don't think that's right. since it's just a piggy back, the maps should be pretty close between 5 and 8 psi. Then again, I'm not actually speaking from experience since I only have the one map right now, but that is what my tuner was going to do for me before he closed his shop.

I'll ask the new guy and see what he says. If that is the case, I don't understand why any boost controller would cost $400 bucks. If you have to load a new map everytime you change settings, you may as well save $400 and just put a new spring in your wastegate everytime!

[TunerTrifecta]

If you want to do something like that, you can't just get a push-button electronic boost controller that just upps the boost. You'll need to get something like the GReddy Profec-B or Apexi AVC-R boost controllers, and 2 tuning maps and have a laptop you can switch the maps with.
Or you go with an EMS that has a thumbwheel, where you can change your maps with the roll of a thumb. I think most of your EMS systems out there today will accept some sort of an "adjuster"

[Krdshrk]

Well, I'm not sure how the AEM F-IC works, but the Unichip can only hold 1 map, and with the Emanage you can only switch tuning maps with the program tool and a laptop/computer. If you have a carpc then you're golden but otherwise it's just not easy.

[TunerTrifecta]

interesting. Maybe I'll get F.A.S.T. to come out with one of their XFI systems for our cars...INSANE EMS system. My dad runs one on his Grand National and it is INCREDIBLE!

[Krdshrk]

Yeah well that's a domestic car.. and an older one at that.... I don't know if they'll be able to get that type of system working with a japanese ecu.

[TunerTrifecta]

They have one for the 93-98 Supra :-P

Besides, it's a blank stand-alone style ecu. that just controls and reads EVERYTHING. Volumetric efficiency, fuel curves, spark, timing, etc...

[Krdshrk]

Full standalone huh? That'd take a LOT of tuning..

[Mr_Meaty]

I was under the impression that the F/IC and the Greddy Ultimate were smart enought to adjust for different boost.
I'll try to find out.

[TunerTrifecta]

a lot of tuning indeed, but you get the best tune out of a standalone. Only problem is, I only know 1 guy who knows these systems inside and out, and he's in MA.

[Mr_Meaty]

If I had an extra $1K, I would have gone with the AEM EMS. Me tuner knew it, and then he would not have had to mess with dealing with the tCs ecu...plus it does tractions controll, dual stage launching, and yes, you can switch boost levels on the fly with an external selenoid switch.
May still do this sometime in the future ;)

[TunerTrifecta]

mmmm AEM EMS....yummy. I may end up going that route. ALWAYS hear good things about it. AND, their UEGO controller is dead sexy.

[Mr_Meaty]

Yeah...all my electronics are currenlty AEM:
AEM WideBand EUGO controller, TruBoost, Oil Pressure and the AEM F/IC Piggyback. :dance:

[Krdshrk]

Yeah you can't switch that AEM F/IC on the fly can you?

How's the TruBoost? I was thinking about it...

[Mr_Meaty]

What do you mean by "on the fly"? Like with a switch? no. But you can load up a map from a laptop while it's running.

the truboost is alright...good deal for the price, but what were your other choices? Seperate gauge and boost controller?

[TunerTrifecta]

Wanna know what I REALLY want? Greddy's VVTI controller....:drool:

[Mr_Meaty]

I believe the AEM EMS can tune vvti as well...but the greddy vtec, they don't make that for our car, right?

[Krdshrk]

GReddy had the VManage out at SEMA or some other show last year... It controls VVTI as well as VTEC.

[Mr_Meaty]

Right, but I thought there was some reason why absolutley no one is using it on the tC.

[crank_101]

Right, but I thought there was some reason why absolutley no one is using it on the tC.
ITS MAD EXPENSIVE!!!

[TunerTrifecta]

It's like 450 from CarToys, already talked to him about it. The VVTi version will be out late this year, early next year. Right now they only have the VTec and MiVEC versions out.

For the benefit you gain, I don't think of that as being very expensive. Now, if what Phil said is true (not doubting you, I just don't know anything about it), then the AEM EMS is the way to go.

[Mr_Meaty]

yeah, except the AEM EMS is $2K!

[TunerTrifecta]

say WHAT? When did it go up? I was pricing one for the Supra @ like $1200...

Damn, maybe I will just go with the F.A.S.T. XFI system. It's only 1150 and monitors EVERYTHING.

[Mr_Meaty]

Well, dezod has the AEM EMS with harness and some cold idle thing for a TOTAL of $2000. I guess if you were gonna splice it yourself and figure out how to get a steady idle your self (since the stock ECU normally controlls that) then you could save a few hundred bucks.

[Mr_Meaty]

OK, here is what I found out from the techs at the AEMPower forums:

If your FIC is using the MAP sensor as the load for the fuel tables, you should be able to tune it properly at both 5 psi and 8 psi. Be sure to tune the 5 psi row and the 8 psi row, and you should be good to go.
basically, what he is saying is that you will have 1 map that goes all the way up to say 10psi and you can tune it there at 10psi, 8psi and 5psi, so you know your car is good at those levels all on that same map.
Then you will use your boost controller to set the wastegaete to 5 psi and you will be fine, you only going half way up on your map. when you set it to 8psi, your still good, you just using more of your map.
And if you want, for the occasional vette, use the scramble boost function to up your boost to 10psi and your still good to go cause your using your full map.

You can do this with the F/IC cause you can tune off boost and the boost sensor is built into the unit, whereas with the Greddy blue, you must purchase the pressure sensor seperatly.

[Mr_Meaty]

A little more from the guys at AEM:

As a matter of fact, that's what many stock ECUs are already doing (assuming they are already equipped with a MAP sensor): the ECU uses a different amount of fuel depending on how much vacuum (or boost) the MAP sensor is reading. The ECU or FIC doesn't really care what setting your boost controller is on, it's just adding a certain amount of fuel when it reads a certain manifold pressure.

[fightinsk8ers]

kinda lost so which emanage is the best for what i would like to do and how much?

[Mr_Meaty]

The AEM F/IC piggy back is $400 plus $300 if you want the plug and play harness.

[fightinsk8ers]

ok i get "plug n play" but can you explain exactly waht it does or why it helps

[Mr_Meaty]

It's a harness. You have to wire the AEM or Emanage into the stock ecu. You could do it manually if you know where everything is going, and you would not need the harness.

What the harness does is it goes in between your managment and your ecu, so you just plug everything in. No splicing wires. very easy.

[TunerTrifecta]

But our cars don't use a MAP sensor, they're AFM based, aren't they? I havent done too much looking into that feature. I mean sure you could always convert it using a GM 3 bar map sensor I guess....

[Mr_Meaty]

I'm looking at my fuel maps in the F/IC software right now...the MAP table is used and the MAF table is blank.
In any event, you would actually be tuning off Boost.

[TunerTrifecta]

Not MAF, AFM. Air Flow Meter. Are our cars MAP based though? That surprises me actually.

[Mr_Meaty]

Well...looking at the maps in the F/IC, I have the following used:

Ignition Map, Degrees
Fuel Map, MAP load
(Fuel Map, MAF load is not used)
MAF Map, Volts
02 Map, Voltage

They are all Load by RPM, so you can tune off boost.
You can have one large map going up to 10psi (or whatever) and if your boost controller is only set to 8psi, it will still use the same map.

[Krdshrk]

Our cars are MAF based, not MAP.

AEM F/IC apparently comes with a MAP sensor. It's also an option for the Emanage too. I have it (just not installed yet) :p

[Mr_Meaty]

Yup. As long as you get the pressure sensor option with the emangae (included with the F/IC) you can tune off boost, so one map should be good for different boost levels.

[TunerTrifecta]

This is why I love Scikotics. I love learning new things about our cars, and innovative products on the market! Has anyone here used the MAF-T Pro system? I know it's HUGE in the Supra community, and decently large in the GN community...