Removing the Engine Cover?

[dj short-e]

How big of a job is it to get the engine cover on and off of the tc? Im suppose to get it powder coated but i was told that things could go wrong if you dont do it the correct way. LIKE LEAKING when you get the cover back on. Is there a seal that needs to be replaced when messing with the cover?

I need all the info possible on this. I'd like to have it OFF and at the shop by monday.

[JustAtC]

okay...i think you mean the valve cover jeff. and with it off, you're not gonna want to be driving around, because the topend of your engine will be exposed. as far as taking it off, it can't be more than a couple bolts that you have to undo. putting it back on, i'm sure you could get some rvt or some other type of sealant and run a bead around it. just my $0.02.

[THansenite]

Haha, when I first read this, I was thinking "taking the engine cover off is easy, it is just two nuts". Then I read it and realized it was the valve cover. haha

If I remember correctly, when Ben (nebster) got his valve cover powdercoated, the company he went through sent him a stock cover so he could send his in. After he got his back, he sent the "core" cover back. I am not sure what the company was though. And I don't think it is too hard to pull the cover off. Most likely, just a few bolts like Alex said.

[dj short-e]

okay...i think you mean the valve cover jeff. and with it off, you're not gonna want to be driving around, because the topend of your engine will be exposed. as far as taking it off, it can't be more than a couple bolts that you have to undo. putting it back on, i'm sure you could get some rvt or some other type of sealant and run a bead around it. just my $0.02.

they have a replacement cover for me while the powder coat is being done. so that means i have to do it twice. and im sure taking it off isnt too hard but gettin' it back on AND SEALING it is what im worried about. well, and finding someone that can give me a ride there and back on monday. haha

[dj short-e]

Haha, when I first read this, I was thinking "taking the engine cover off is easy, it is just two nuts". Then I read it and realized it was the valve cover. haha

If I remember correctly, when Ben (nebster) got his valve cover powdercoated, the company he went through sent him a stock cover so he could send his in. After he got his back, he sent the "core" cover back. I am not sure what the company was though. And I don't think it is too hard to pull the cover off. Most likely, just a few bolts like Alex said.

ok ok, i named it wrong... haha.. aaaaanyways, i've just been sponsored by APC powder coating so i have the company already, but im in a BIT of a rush because it has to be done for 2 shows NEXT WEEKEND.. Oct. 6th-7th. I think my only "worry" is about sealing the both covers (the core and mine) where they dont leak.

[JustAtC]

jeff...i don't see why you couldn't just run a bead of this stuff around the valve cover before you put it on. its even recommended for valve covers.

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/Permatex_Sensor-Safe_Blue_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

[dj short-e]

jeff...i don't see why you couldn't just run a bead of this stuff around the valve cover before you put it on. its even recommended for valve covers.

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/Permatex_Sensor-Safe_Blue_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

mmmkay thats what i was lookin' for.. any recomendations on tightening it down a certain amount.

[JustAtC]

mmmkay thats what i was lookin' for.. any recomendations on tightening it down a certain amount.

from what i can find for you(do you not know how to use google?!?!), you would need to torque the bolts to:

Engine Valve Cover (actual metal cover beneath plastic cover)
Outside Bolts (6 bolts) - 8 ft/lbs
Outside Nuts (2 nuts0 - 8 ft/lbs
Center Bolts (2 bolts near the coil packs) - 10 ft/lbs
http://www.clubsciontc.com/forum_thread_13466-Torque-Specifications.html
(stolen from clubsciontc.com)

[dj short-e]

from what i can find for you(do you not know how to use google?!?!), you would need to torque the bolts to:

Engine Valve Cover (actual metal cover beneath plastic cover)
Outside Bolts (6 bolts) - 8 ft/lbs
Outside Nuts (2 nuts0 - 8 ft/lbs
Center Bolts (2 bolts near the coil packs) - 10 ft/lbs
http://www.clubsciontc.com/forum_thread_13466-Torque-Specifications.html
(stolen from clubsciontc.com)

alrighty then.. thanx..

haha.. ya i know how to use google.. im just reading through all these damn GOODBYE threads and its consuming my whole day..

[JustAtC]

alrighty then.. thanx..

haha.. ya i know how to use google.. im just reading through all these damn GOODBYE threads and its consuming my whole day..

lol....i know what you mean. in the last 2 weeks, i've spent a crap load of time in the post whores thread, and now look at my post count!!! the only good thing is that work hasn't suffered.

[ninjamin]

just my .02 from my experience (2 years as a mechanic, some of that time spent in a machine shop building engines) don't use RTV when you put that valve cover on.
1. its a pain to clean up so you're gonna hate yourself when you have to pop the core cover off and put the new one on.
2. any good RTV has to set up like overnight before it will actually seal.
3. Not saying you will do this, but it really requires less RTV to seal than you think. I don't know how many times ive seen engines with ultra copper all over them that still leaked like crazy because the guy thought gooping it on was key. 1/8" bead max, man.
4. The factory didnt use a sealant like that, why should you? Its a good quick fix, but i highly recommend getting a new stock gasket and just making sure everything is clean when you put it back on. Shoot, if you're careful enough you can re-use your stock one. There isn't any real oil pressure under the valvecover, oil only leaks out from splashing.

If you are still worried that a stock gasket wont do it well enough, a small dab of permatex black silicone gasket maker anywhere there is a corner or a seam won't hurt anything.

[dj short-e]

just my .02 from my experience (2 years as a mechanic, some of that time spent in a machine shop building engines) don't use RTV when you put that valve cover on.
1. its a pain to clean up so you're gonna hate yourself when you have to pop the core cover off and put the new one on.
2. any good RTV has to set up like overnight before it will actually seal.
3. Not saying you will do this, but it really requires less RTV to seal than you think. I don't know how many times ive seen engines with ultra copper all over them that still leaked like crazy because the guy thought gooping it on was key. 1/8" bead max, man.
4. The factory didnt use a sealant like that, why should you? Its a good quick fix, but i highly recommend getting a new stock gasket and just making sure everything is clean when you put it back on. Shoot, if you're careful enough you can re-use your stock one. There isn't any real oil pressure under the valvecover, oil only leaks out from splashing.


If you are still worried that a stock gasket wont do it well enough, a small dab of permatex black silicone gasket maker anywhere there is a corner or a seam won't hurt anything.

Well, hopefully i wont have to change the gasket twice.. since im replacing the cover twice.

[JustAtC]

okay jeff, i've got 2 words for you......BLACK CHROME. nuff said. that would look sick with the red powdercoat. don't know how you would incorporate it, but it would look sick. just my $0.02.

[dj short-e]

okay jeff, i've got 2 words for you......BLACK CHROME. nuff said. that would look sick with the red powdercoat. don't know how you would incorporate it, but it would look sick. just my $0.02.

Black chrome on what? and i WAS SUPPOSED to take my cover down to the shop today but i got stuck with a late job that might not end until 5pm now.. so that sucks.. i was planning on having it done by this weekends shows. Last week and this week have been the busiest weeks since i've been here.

[JustAtC]

i was thinking the face of your wheels. still do the red on the inside of the spokes, but then black chrome the face. and also your grills.

[dj short-e]

i was thinking the face of your wheels. still do the red on the inside of the spokes, but then black chrome the face. and also your grills.

i would have to see what it looks like first.. cuz i like the front of the wheels.

[JustAtC]

welp....it was only a suggestion.

[ninjamin]

Well, hopefully i wont have to change the gasket twice.. since im replacing the cover twice.

I would re-use the stock gasket on the substitute cover and get a new gasket when you put your nice newly coated cover on. You should be good to go. Just be sure and torque everything correctly, and don't go in a circle. Tighten the bolts down in a sort of random pattern and be sure not to over-torque. Its like when you put your wheels on and you torque the lugs in a star pattern, same idea. Torquing in a circle can squeeze the gasket out somewhere. Do the middle two, then the corners, then the rest. Oh and don't just torque it right off - snug all the bolts, then torque them. its all about even pressure.