Ceramic Dustless brake pads

[MSSC]

Ok, I couldn't find a general thread that seemed to include brake pads, so I will ask it here, and undoubtedly it will be moved to the right place... So I want new brake pads, the good kind, for my tC, ones that will not make my rims black every few days, so which ones are recommended, how much are they, and where should I get them? Thanks people!!

[Iateacricket]

Hawks

[Krdshrk]

You're not going to find any dustless pads - all pads create dust.

There are pads that produce LESS dust than the OEM ones. Look for the Axxis Deluxe Plus pads. Dezod.com has them. They're "organic" pads, which produce less dust. I don't know how well they wear or how their braking is, however.

High performance brake pads will produce MORE dust if anything. The Axxis Ultimate pads I have make a lot more dust than OEM do. The Hawk HPS or HP+ and all the other high performance pads they make produce more dust.

[MSSC]

You're not going to find any dustless pads - all pads create dust.

There are pads that produce LESS dust than the OEM ones. Look for the Axxis Deluxe Plus pads. Dezod.com has them. They're "organic" pads, which produce less dust. I don't know how well they wear or how their braking is, however.

High performance brake pads will produce MORE dust if anything. The Axxis Ultimate pads I have make a lot more dust than OEM do. The Hawk HPS or HP+ and all the other high performance pads they make produce more dust.
REALLY? I thought the ceramic pads did away with that ugly black dust that collects all over the rims, because that is what I want to get rid of...

[mwuf15]

i need to know this too, since i will be needing new breaks soon. so what does everyone recommend?

[Krdshrk]

All pads create dust. There's no way around it. The pads grind on the metal rotors and the friction wears away at the pads. There's nothing to do to prevent it, but you can minimize it.

Considering the options for the tC, the Axxis Deluxe Plus pads are the best bet for lowering the amount of dust the brakes make.

http://www.axxisbrakes.com/radarchart.gif

[MSSC]

OK cool, and where's the best place to get them?

[Krdshrk]

You can get them from stoptech.com or Dezod.com. I prefer getting them from Dezod.

[erikarene]

hawks are awesome......got'em at modacar

[hotwheelsrs1]

WWW.DEZOD.COM (http://www.DEZOD.COM)!

[Iateacricket]

hawks are awesome......got'em at modacar

+2! :wave:

[MSSC]

Which one, the stoptech stage 1 brake upgrade? $279?

[Krdshrk]

No - just go for the brake pads. You should see the Axxis Deluxe plus pads there - for front and back. Most likely you'll only have to replace the front but if you want to do all 4 go for it.

I have the StopTech Stage II kit myself - it's great but it's a lot of work to put in (especially the brake lines).

[Iateacricket]

Never done line on a tC, but on the box it was easy enough for even me to figure out.

[Krdshrk]

It's not changing the lines that's hard - it's rebleeding them properly.

[Iateacricket]

Yeah, that part was a pain in the ass. Keep pumping until your leg falls off!

[MSSC]

No - just go for the brake pads. You should see the Axxis Deluxe plus pads there - for front and back. Most likely you'll only have to replace the front but if you want to do all 4 go for it.

I have the StopTech Stage II kit myself - it's great but it's a lot of work to put in (especially the brake lines).
OK yeah, All I want is the pads, but when I searched all I found was those kits, where are just the pads?

[riboflavin]

here u go
http://www.dezod.com/cat_brake_pads2.cfm

[MSSC]

here u go
http://www.dezod.com/cat_brake_pads2.cfm
Which ones are they? Sorry Im an idiot with car parts..

[riboflavin]

if u r getting Axxis Deluxe Plus pads that krdshrk recommended, they are first two pads u see. $39 for front $34.75 for rear

[_Keith_]

hawks are awesome......got'em at modacar


+2! :wave:
+3 for Hawks!

[Krdshrk]

The first 2 on that page - the first is for the front brakes, the 2nd is for the rear brakes.

[hotwheelsrs1]

dude c'mon mat, u gotta read a little bit to, we cant just drop tem in ur lap lol

[MSSC]

dude c'mon mat, u gotta read a little bit to, we cant just drop tem in ur lap lol
I don't see why not..

[erikarene]

not only do i change my brake pads but also the rotors .......this was recommended to me back in the civic days to change them at the same time......then you got to bled the brake line and such.....you just cant slap on some new brake pads and call it a day....there is more to it.....

[-Samson-]

Is modacar still hooking us up??? Heard people were having problems... I need to get some rotors and brake pads too...:ponder:

[MSSC]

not only do i change my brake pads but also the rotors .......this was recommended to me back in the civic days to change them at the same time......then you got to bled the brake line and such.....you just cant slap on some new brake pads and call it a day....there is more to it.....
I can't just put on new pads withOUT changing the rotors or bleeding the lines?? Because THAT is what I want to do for now.

[Iateacricket]

Dude, you can put on new pads without doing rotors. As for bleeding the lines it depends.....I haven't done the tC's brakes...but if you have to take the calipers off it requires opening the bleed valve so you don't blow your master cylinder or something.

[Krdshrk]

You can change the pads without changing the rotors - it's easy as heck to do.

You don't have to rebleed the brakes every time too - you don't unhook the brake lines to change the pads.

[Iateacricket]

Ah ok, I know for a rotor change you do because the piston has to be compressed to get the calipers off. I highly suggest running with steel braided line. The increase in braking performance is very noticable

[Krdshrk]

Uh - you don't have to bleed 'em when changing rotors either. All you need to do is get a brake pad caliper piston spreader (or c-clamp). You can remove the caliper with no issue. Might take some hammering to take the rotor off. Changing the pads is simple - slide them out. Then use the piston tool to push the piston back to it's compressed position - it'll stay there. Put the pads back in and bolt it all back on. Just pump the brakes a few times after changing the pads and everything will be reseated properly.

[ShadowBox]

Yeah, no need to bleed brake lines unless you remove and then reconnect the brake lines. You're bleeding out any air that you may have let into the lines. Air is compressible while brake fluid isn't (it is but nearly as much), so you'd have a very soft spongy feel to your pedal.

Changing rotors w/ pads may be a best practice to insure the longest life from your pads, but definately not necessary. If you do buy new rotors, buy good ones. The chinesse cheap stuff from Autozone will warp the first time you slam on your brakes and get them super hot.

[Krdshrk]

Just a FYI - I had to bed in my brakes when I got them done (Rotors and pads) - which means heating them up until they were smoking... But most people won't have to do this...