dzxa06
07-19-2007, 11:58 PM
This is kinda a continuation of another thread about lighting the storage box, but since it was a DIY I thought i would post a new thread.
Lighting the center console storage box.
Its nice that scion provided us light in the center storage compartment of the xA, but why only when the dome light is on? I often search for items in that storage compartment, not when I have my door open, but when its dark and I am driving. I decided I didn't want the box lit all the time, but just when the door was open and I was looking for something in it. This was the solution I came up with to accomplish this. I thought I would write up a post about it, in case anyone else was interested in doing it as well.
Cost: Under $10 not including tools
Items needed:
1 SPDT switch (radio shack) $2.69
2 prewired LED's (Oznium.com) $1.29 each
Some 18 gauge wire, 2 colors of wire are helpful, 1-2 ft.
2 Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connectors for the 18 gauge wire $2.00 for a pack of 10
Standard electrical tools (soldering iron, solder, wire strippers, heat shrink tubing)
tape, I used electrical for mounting the LEDs and double sided for mounting the switch.
9v battery for testing
flathead and philips screw drivers.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/partsneeded.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/microswitch.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/ozniumprewiredleds.jpg
You should have some basic electrical skill, (know how to use all the electrical tools listed above) or know someone who you can talk into helping you.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/removingbox.jpg
Removal of the center storage compartment.
Pop the side silver trim off, I use a flat head screw driver to pry it away from the console at the bottom, then just pull at it. It comes out pretty easy. This reveals the philips screws to remove all the center console items, (radio, storage box, AC controls, Lighter and ash tray). For now just unscrew the storage box. You will need to put the car in something other than park if you have an automatic. Just remember to keep a break on and put it back in gear after you remove the box. Unplug the power to the lamp that is in the back of the storage box. This is also a good time to change out that amber lamp to a LED. I believe its a 194 type connection. Now that you have the box out you can start with..
Connections:
1. Solder the positive wires from the LED's to the N.O. (normally on) terminal of the switch. That means when the switch is depressed the circuit is On and power will flow through this terminal. Heat shrink the end of the terminal for protection and to help secure the contact.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/wiredtono.jpg
2. Solder your positive 18 gauge wire to the C (constant) terminal of the switch. This is what your going to connect your 12 v source to later. Heat shrink this connection as well.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/wiredconstantandNO.jpg
3. Wrap the negative ends of the prewired LEDs together and solder them to the end of your negative 18 gauge wire. Heat shrink this connection as well. This wire will be connected to your ground.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/switchoff.jpg
4. You can now test your switch, LED's and your connections by connecting up your positive and negative wires to a 9v battery, then depressing the switch. The LED's should only be on when you have the switch depressed.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/switchon.jpg
Mounting:
5. At the back of the top of the storage box, there is two holes besides the middle lamp one. This is where I chose to place my LED's. I scuffed up the ends of the LED's to make the light more diffuse and mounted them roughly straight down and held them in place with the electrical tape.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/mountedback.jpg
6. When you open the door to the storage box, it comes up and rests on two plastic pieces as part of the top of the storage box. This is where to mount the switch. It takes a bit of experimentation to decide where the door will come up fully and still depress the switch. When you are happy with a spot, then just use double sided mounting tape on it.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/mountedfront.jpg
7. Route your positive and negative wire so it is leading out to the right side of the box, if your facing the box door.
Installing it back in the car:
I decided to tap into the cigarette lighter for my power and ground. This is an accessory connection that is powered when the key is on. I decided to use this instead of a constant 12v source, or one that was connected to the headlights being on. My reasoning being that I didn't want to accidently leave the door open with the key off and drain the battery, (not like the LED's draw a lot of power, but still...) and that if the key was off and the door was open, the regular light in the storage box would be on anyway. I didn't think connecting to the light on switch was as easy to route as the cigarette lighter.
8. Unscrew the ash tray and lighter module in the center console. unplug the cigarette lighter from the back. These wires have a rubber cover that needs to be trimmed away, about 1/2 inch. Use your Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connectors here to tap your positive wire to the Gray wire and the Negative wire to the Black and White wire.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/lighterwire.jpg
9. Reconnect the cigarette lighter and mount that piece back in to the console then slide the storage box back where it came from as well. Remember to reattach the factory light for the storage box. Open the box door to test the light, then screw everything back in and replace the trim bars on the side of the center console.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/wiredwithdooropen.jpg
I'm very happy with how this has solved my problem and now I have light to find things in the storage box when I want.
This is my first DIY write up, I hope you find it informative and helpful.
Thanks to my friend Bob, who was the guy I talked into helping me with the electrical connections.
Lighting the center console storage box.
Its nice that scion provided us light in the center storage compartment of the xA, but why only when the dome light is on? I often search for items in that storage compartment, not when I have my door open, but when its dark and I am driving. I decided I didn't want the box lit all the time, but just when the door was open and I was looking for something in it. This was the solution I came up with to accomplish this. I thought I would write up a post about it, in case anyone else was interested in doing it as well.
Cost: Under $10 not including tools
Items needed:
1 SPDT switch (radio shack) $2.69
2 prewired LED's (Oznium.com) $1.29 each
Some 18 gauge wire, 2 colors of wire are helpful, 1-2 ft.
2 Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connectors for the 18 gauge wire $2.00 for a pack of 10
Standard electrical tools (soldering iron, solder, wire strippers, heat shrink tubing)
tape, I used electrical for mounting the LEDs and double sided for mounting the switch.
9v battery for testing
flathead and philips screw drivers.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/partsneeded.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/microswitch.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/ozniumprewiredleds.jpg
You should have some basic electrical skill, (know how to use all the electrical tools listed above) or know someone who you can talk into helping you.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/removingbox.jpg
Removal of the center storage compartment.
Pop the side silver trim off, I use a flat head screw driver to pry it away from the console at the bottom, then just pull at it. It comes out pretty easy. This reveals the philips screws to remove all the center console items, (radio, storage box, AC controls, Lighter and ash tray). For now just unscrew the storage box. You will need to put the car in something other than park if you have an automatic. Just remember to keep a break on and put it back in gear after you remove the box. Unplug the power to the lamp that is in the back of the storage box. This is also a good time to change out that amber lamp to a LED. I believe its a 194 type connection. Now that you have the box out you can start with..
Connections:
1. Solder the positive wires from the LED's to the N.O. (normally on) terminal of the switch. That means when the switch is depressed the circuit is On and power will flow through this terminal. Heat shrink the end of the terminal for protection and to help secure the contact.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/wiredtono.jpg
2. Solder your positive 18 gauge wire to the C (constant) terminal of the switch. This is what your going to connect your 12 v source to later. Heat shrink this connection as well.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/wiredconstantandNO.jpg
3. Wrap the negative ends of the prewired LEDs together and solder them to the end of your negative 18 gauge wire. Heat shrink this connection as well. This wire will be connected to your ground.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/switchoff.jpg
4. You can now test your switch, LED's and your connections by connecting up your positive and negative wires to a 9v battery, then depressing the switch. The LED's should only be on when you have the switch depressed.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/switchon.jpg
Mounting:
5. At the back of the top of the storage box, there is two holes besides the middle lamp one. This is where I chose to place my LED's. I scuffed up the ends of the LED's to make the light more diffuse and mounted them roughly straight down and held them in place with the electrical tape.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/mountedback.jpg
6. When you open the door to the storage box, it comes up and rests on two plastic pieces as part of the top of the storage box. This is where to mount the switch. It takes a bit of experimentation to decide where the door will come up fully and still depress the switch. When you are happy with a spot, then just use double sided mounting tape on it.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/mountedfront.jpg
7. Route your positive and negative wire so it is leading out to the right side of the box, if your facing the box door.
Installing it back in the car:
I decided to tap into the cigarette lighter for my power and ground. This is an accessory connection that is powered when the key is on. I decided to use this instead of a constant 12v source, or one that was connected to the headlights being on. My reasoning being that I didn't want to accidently leave the door open with the key off and drain the battery, (not like the LED's draw a lot of power, but still...) and that if the key was off and the door was open, the regular light in the storage box would be on anyway. I didn't think connecting to the light on switch was as easy to route as the cigarette lighter.
8. Unscrew the ash tray and lighter module in the center console. unplug the cigarette lighter from the back. These wires have a rubber cover that needs to be trimmed away, about 1/2 inch. Use your Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connectors here to tap your positive wire to the Gray wire and the Negative wire to the Black and White wire.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/lighterwire.jpg
9. Reconnect the cigarette lighter and mount that piece back in to the console then slide the storage box back where it came from as well. Remember to reattach the factory light for the storage box. Open the box door to test the light, then screw everything back in and replace the trim bars on the side of the center console.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/dzxa06/wiredwithdooropen.jpg
I'm very happy with how this has solved my problem and now I have light to find things in the storage box when I want.
This is my first DIY write up, I hope you find it informative and helpful.
Thanks to my friend Bob, who was the guy I talked into helping me with the electrical connections.